I learned about Kumano Kodo, the Unesco World Heritage Pilgrimage, during my first visit to Japan when I picked up a travel magazine from one of the hotels while visiting the Mie Prefecture. The article and the pictures of the Sacred Site’s routes zigzagging through the Kii Mountains range, winding through mysterious passages, and leading to grand shrines and beautiful temples stayed with me.

Over a thousand years, Kumano Kodo has been the mythical holy ground where people believed the gods lived. Kumano literally means “the place where deities live”, “the ends of the earth”, and “where the spirit of the dead stay”, among other things.
 
So I knew I would come back to Japan and do the trail. 

2 years later, in the first week of March, I arrived in Japan. The weather was just perfect, with nice crispy cold air and sunny fresh days. It was not too cold and not too hot, the perfect weather in Japan. Few trees were just giving the first signs of Spring. The branches of the plum trees, and cherry trees were dotted with pink and white spots.

​I arrived at Kumano Kodo via train from Shin Osaka to Kii-Tanabe station on the Kodama Shinkansen line. The train took 2:30 hours and stopped in several stations before reaching Tanabe station and the last station of the train.

Mari Nozu, the owner of Luxury Travel Japan, was waiting for me at the station and took me to the Kumano Tourist Bureau just a few steps from the train station. She told me the visit would be very instructive.

The center works as support for all visitors interested in doing the walk. Inside the building I was introduced to Mr. Brad Towle, the International Tourism Promotion and Development Director.

Mr. Towle took me to see a large map of the region hanging from a wall in the lobby of the building. On the map he first pointed out where I would be hiking - the Nakahechi route, the most picturesque and recommended paths.

He introduced me to some history and facts of the remote spiritual hike. He said the trail is considered a pilgrimage because of the blend between the animist indigenous faith of the Japanese, the Shinto, and the Buddhist religion introduced by Korea in the 6th century. I told him I’ve always been very curious about Shintoism and Buddhism philosophy and he said the Kumano Kodo would be a good place to learn more about it.  
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Shinto is not a religion: the craving of the Japanese for religion was satisfied in the sixth and seventh centuries A.D, by Buddhism which has remained their religion to the present day.  

The director also mentioned that Tanabe City Tourism Bureau has a joint promotion project with the Turismo de Santiago de Compostela the other UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage route, there are only two of this kind in the world. Tanabe City and Santiago de Compostela have been working together in a partnership to promote world pilgrimage culture and share knowledge while respecting each other’s unique spiritual and cultural heritage. I thought this was so special, two different cultures and beliefs with a common goal.

The Tourism Bureau also has a Travel office located across from the train station.  We walked to see it, and I learned that here, the visitors can get all kinds of support; products and services like luggage assistance, shuttle service, local guides, travel services and more. The Staff will provide you with plenty of maps and information for your journey, and they provide information about the weather.

​Tanabe city looked like a place to slow down and relax, but I needed to get in the car and drive to Takijiri Oji where I would begin my first hike the next day.

We took Highway #311 about 45 minutes, driving into the mountain range and following the river, until we arrived at The Nakahechi section of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage route.

The guide, Mrs. Waka, wanted me to see the traditional entrance to the sacred mountains and the Shrine located at the trailhead. I stopped at my first shrine and I went through my first purification and cleansing ritual. Once we passed the Torrii (sacred gate) we proceed to the Temizura (the stone water basin). In my last visit to Japan I was introduced to the ritual of purifying my hands and mouth before I enter a shrine. In front of the Shrine I bowed twice, clapped twice, rang the bell, said a prayer, and backed up to bow one more time before we exited. I did several of these rituals as I visited several shrines on my hike.  

After the Ritual, we went to visit the Kumano Kodo kan Pilgrimage center, located across the river. It’s a facility designed to offer an introduction about the Pilgrimage Etiquette and history. There I had another introductory exhibition, and I had the opportunity to meet with local people. The Center is a good place to pick up last minute goods for your walk.

​We drove another 30 minutes to the town of Yunomine, in the isolated hot spring village with over 1,800 years of history, where I would be spending my first night. The town is a quaint little collection of inns tucked into a small valley deep in the heart of the sacred mountains of Kumano, where the Yunomine Onsen was discovered. It is thought to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. It is registered with UNESCO World Heritage, and it is intimately connected to the Kumano pilgrimage as a sacred site for hot water ablution rites.

We arrived and went to see the famous bath. The bath has been carved from natural stone and sits in a boarded enclosure located in a rustic cabin on the creek that runs through Yunomine Onsen.

The bath is fuming, and the smell of sulphur was strong, but tolerable enough to take a 30 minute bath in the healing waters. According to the locals, it changes color 7 times a day. The colors I saw were bluish gray and opal reddish. It holds only 2 or 3 people at a time. Turns are taken every 30 minutes so groups can bathe.

​If you decide to use the bath, you will have to obtain a number to get your bathing time, which can be obtained at the public bathhouse desk. 

Yunomine Onsen is an integral part of the over 1,000 year old Kumano pilgrimage tradition. To this day, during the Spring Festival, pilgrims perform hot water purification rituals in these piping hot mineral waters after their long journey, making it a popular place for walkers to stay.

After the bath experience, I went to explore the The Akagi-goe route which is on the main Nakahechi route. It is a mountain trail that climbs up and over a ridge. The Akagi-goe trail links to Yunomine Onsen, the trail that starts right behind the Tsuboyu hot spring bath.  

This section is often used by walkers to make a loop with the Nakahechi section from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha.

I went to explore the Akagi-oge trail. I was so ready to experience the path and feel the terrain. I realized soon after spending some time hiking that I was in a very special place. The forest is full of beautiful tall Japanese Red Pines, Japanese Cypress mixed with Camphor trees, and bamboo groves.  I thought it was the most beautiful place I’ve seen. The sound of water running down in drainage gutters made out of stone, made all feel fresh and alive. I had my first encounter with a stone Jizo dressed with a small red bib around his neck. The old stone Jizos are statue protectors of children, women, and travelers. I stood there contemplating for a moment. I was finally in the Kumano Kodo, the Sacred site for redemption and devotion.

Before dark we returned to the hotel. My first night was in Azumaya Ryokan, one of the many inns in the ancient town, but the most traditional inn in Yunomine Onsen. This was my first experience in a traditional Ryokan.

The Inn was founded by a shrine priest in the 18th century. I was told that the capacity is 22 rooms, but at first glance the buildings look small from outside the 2-story wooden structure. However, once you step inside the whole building magically expands.

​While I was walking to see my room, the front desk woman informed me that in the rear of the building there is an additional area of another 2-story connecting building, and the hotel becomes a 4-story building. She took me to see the two large communal baths for men and women, located on the first floor.

She explained that all rooms are Japanese traditional rooms and named with three names such as “Cherry,” “Bamboo,” “Cedars”.  Mine was “Ichii” (yew), a deluxe room on the first floor, facing the street, and featuring an ensuite outdoor hot spring bath.

I took my shoes off and entered. The first thing I noticed inside was the typical Japanese tea room with a calligraphy painting hanging from the wall and the small vase with flowers.

The front desk person quickly pointed out that the suite has multiple rooms divided by fusuma doors and a lofty ceiling. She showed me around.

The tatami-mat that covers the floors of the rooms felt soft on my feet.

​There was a twin washing area, an ensuite toilet, and a wooden bath onsen with rainfall shower aside.  
 
The Ichii room was beautiful with its own hot spring, surrounded by a perfectly manicured Japanese garden and decorated with moss-covered praying stones and a lantern. I sat by the sitting area, contemplating the Japanese garden and breathing it all in.

Dinner came at 7:00 PM, and I experienced my first Kaiseki supper, the pinnacle of Japanese Cuisine. The low table in the tea room was transformed into a kaleidoscope of amazing food.

​The lady who brought the food to the room told us that the chef prepares the meals with foods harvested from the Kumano region, and he cooks with the hot spring water. Food was decorated and displayed so perfectly on top of fantastic porcelain dishes; many fresh vegetables, fish, tofu, miso soup, noodles, and a bottle of sake.  

I slept on a puffy white mattress with a cozy floral cover, and I woke up just in time to see the sunrise. The light of the new day was moving down quickly from the mountains, so I immediately went outside to experience the old town with the morning light.

​It was a great experience to have visited Azumaya Ryokan, an authentic "Onsen Ryokan”.

In all Ryokans, the Traditional "Kaiseki" supper and breakfast are included, and special hot spring coffee is served in the morning. Experiencing food in Ryokans is one of the main attractions, and breakfast did not disappoint at all. Ryokan Adumaya prides itself on using 100% hot spring water in all of the meals.

I have been looking forward to my hike today which will be the longest I have done in a long time (almost 10 hours).

We arrived early at the trail which is on the left side of a small shrine building I had visited the day before. An old stone staircase took me into the mountains.

This path was already being used as a pilgrimage route from about a thousand years ago by pilgrims seeking rebirth.

The Director of Kumano Tourist Bureau told me this is one of the most popular routes to the Kumano grand shrines, and historically it was extensively traveled.

My guide, Waka, told me this would be a full day loop walk, and it would be a steep climb to Takahara Village, through native and planted forests.

She said that the Takijiri-oji trail was the passage into the sacred mountains, the entry to the abode of the gods, and Buddhist paradises of rebirth.

The hike was moderately difficult with uneven trail, ancient cobblestone and stairs with many steep climbs.

Around 15 minutes into the climb, we found a set of large boulders. Some of them form a cave called Tainai-kuguri, where you can test your faith by climbing through the crack at the far end. Passing through the cave is like coming through a natural womb, “being reborn”, Waka told me.

I walked through beautiful and peaceful native forest in a kind of walking meditation until we reached a lookout point where you can see the majestic mountains and small deep valleys waiting to be explored.

​Proper clothing and footwear are essential, especially when you are planning for a multiple-day trek. It was cold in the morning but it gets warmer, and it is useful to wear layers. We followed the stairs down to join up with the main route and kept walking in this amazing forest.

​The descent was as difficult as the climb, because of the many steps down and uneven terrain. Make sure you bring good, sturdy hiking boots with good support, as the ground can get slippery.

We finally arrived at a gentle slope that descends through a peaceful bamboo grove. Waka pointed out to me the places where wild pigs have dug out the new shoots.

We passed by a small shrine with hari Jizo statues. The Jizo watches over pilgrims and is also believed to heal toothaches.

Following the gravel road, we arrived at a majestic giant Camphor tree grove, over a 1,000 years old, guarding the Takahara Kumano-jinja Shrine.

The Shrine is one of the oldest buildings along this section of this pilgrimage route, from the Muromachi period (1333-1576). There is a figure of the Buddha fitted onto a copper plaque. The building is beautiful with a staircase leading to the door.

I saw colorful paintings and the roof had perfect lines with bronze ornaments, characteristic of the shrine architecture.

After a quick visit and admiring the amazing camphor trees, we continued the route to Takahara, a small ridge-top community rich in history associated with the Kumano pilgrimage.

Takahara is known as "Kiri-no-Sato" (Village of the Mist) because the scenic mountain vistas are often blanketed with fog.

We passed by layered terraces of rice paddies and wonderful panoramic views of the Hatenashi mountain range. We finally arrived at our lunch spot, the Kiri-no-sato Takahara lodge, where we would eat at the new elevated patio with a breathtaking 360 degree view of the mountain range. 

The owner of the lodge, Mr. Jian Shino, told me in his lodge all the products are organic and they use the water of the hot spring to cook the ingredients.

​It was a nice stop to rest, contemplate, absorb the beauty, and also to reflect on the spiritual essence of the amazing walk. Lunch was perfect, typical Japanese food with great fresh taste.

From the lodge, we continued to the trail that runs up and East. We passed more terraced fields and houses until we climbed into the mountain again, and disappeared into the forest. We walked the rest of the day, passing through so many torii gateways.

Waka told me that as one enters through these passages, the level of sacredness increases.

​One of the goals of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage is to rid one’s body and spirit of impurities from past and present lives and to be ritually reborn and rejuvenated by the virtuous powers of the Kumano deities.

The landscape continued changing and the trail descended steeply as we followed the creek until the pilgrimage route ran close to a highway, which we crossed to reach the Kumano Kodo again. The bus stop is located here and runs only once every Thursday and comes back in the afternoon. 
 
We passed through small isolated villages, visited old shrines, and admired the old collections of statues along the hike. 

This meaningful hike reminded me of the times I used to hike the Andean mountains in my childhood. I remember having a special connection with nature. They were, and continue to be sacred places for me. I call them cathedrals of Nature.

​The Kumano Kodo has moved my spirit again in a way that only nature can do.

Just before sunset, we arrived at a lookout point that is not to be missed! Fushiogami-oji is just a magnificent view.

From this view, ancient people got a first distant view of the Shinto shrine Kumano Hongu Taisha. Here at this spot, the pilgrims knelt down in prayer, and many got moved to tears without knowing. The name “Fushiogami”, literally kneeling down in prayer, came from this episode. The Panoramic viewpoint is just so out of this world.

Here I caught the first glimpse of the colossal torii gate that marks the outermost entrance to Kumano Hongu Taisha's sacred precincts.

​Waka said I was looking at the gate of awakening of the aspiration to enlightenment. It signifies the division of the secular and the spiritual worlds”.
 
The sunset was just perfect, almost dreamy, but very real. I fell into the spell of the moment, and my reflective mood took me to a meditative stage. What a sight to behold!

The guide called my name and woke me up from my spell. She said we needed to hurry up before it gets dark, we still needed to reach the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine.

We arrived in the dark. Light coming from the lamps of the shrine allowed me to see the long stone staircase that leads to the sacred grounds of the shrine. The 158 stone steps led us to the shrine, built on a ridge surrounded by giant cedar and cypress trees.

The shrine has a magnificent roof made of Cypress shingles, ornate with X-shaped cross pieces of bronze. It is a beautiful majestic temple in the middle of the majestic mountains.

The building is one of the Kumano Sanzan, three grand shrines of Kumano, and the head shrine of over 3,000 Kumano shrines across Japan.

​The austere pavilions made entirely of dark Japanese cypress bark blend beautifully with the forest. Flocks of fluttering, screaming crows made noises around us. They did not leave us alone until we left the shrine in the dark, like guardians of the shrine.

We arrived at the Village of Kawaya Onsen to sleep. Our Ryokan was in front of the Oto River that runs through the village.

​The Roykan features a natural open-air bath with plenty of hot water, and I was ready to jump in the bathtub outside on the balcony of my room. The therapeutic water is the best you can do for your tired body after a long hike.

​The next day, after a typical Japanese breakfast of dry fish and miso soup, we headed to the Shorinji Temple, to a morning session of Zazen meditation.

After the meditation class, we went to see the colossal torii, the one I had observed from a distance from the top of the mountain the night before.

The gate is the largest in the world, at 34 meters high, standing in the middle of a rice field. It is made of steel and weighs 172 tons. It was erected in 2000. This Torii is called Otorii, O means “big”.

Walking through the grounds of what was the ancient shrine, before it was destroyed by a flood, I felt a spiritual energy that lifted me up and put me in an almost surreal state, perhaps because I just did a whole morning of mediation and my mind and body were so relaxed and open to a new state of mind.

The open view of the rice fields, the ancient trees lined with the tall gate, and the sound of the river nearby were so sublime, like I was just transported to a new dimension.

Our next stop was Kamikura Shrine, home to an event of extreme spiritual significance.

The Oto Matsuri fire festival is held there every February, but also there is a hulking boulder, the Gotobiki-iwa Rock, that sits adjacent to the shrine, where the Kumano deities were said to have descended to earth.

It is not an easy task to reach the shrine. There is a steep staircase, built 800 years ago, with 538 irregular stones to climb, and it can be a little treacherous. The course starts at the bottom of the mountain and winds its way up under a canopy of ancient trees. 

While not an easy climb, the views from the top are so worth it, with a great view of the city of Shingu. The Shrine is a beautiful gem and a must see if you can do the steps.

For the rest of the day we continued the Kumano trail until we reached Nachi Taisha Shrine via the Daimond-zaka trail via a mountain path. My last shrine prospering as a sacred ground along with Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, this temple is the oldest structure in Kumano. Many precious important cultural properties can be found here.

​The precincts are renowned for their magnificent views of Nachi Falls, Nachi Primeval Forest, and the Pacific Ocean.

Like the other temple, it takes an effort to visit. After walking for a while, we reached the path leading us to an old stone staircase lined with century old cedar trees. It leads up for about one kilometer before ending at the Torii - the gateway to the temple complex.

Kumano Nachi Taisha is a spiritual compound built on the mountainside facing the Nachi-no-Otaki waterfall, the highest waterfall in Japan. Once you pass the gate, you succumb to the unbelievably beautiful valley, with ancient holly trees.

Very close to the Shinto shrine complex lays a Buddhist temple. The Seiganto-ji temple is older than the Shinto shrines and can be traced back to the Buddhist monk from India who came here as early as the 4th century and built a hermitage.

The Buddhist temple complex contains several buildings besides the picturesque pagoda. The main building is also the starting point for another - Buddhist - pilgrimage.

The combination of Shinto and Buddhist places of worship, called Jingu-ji, is very rare today. Many such complexes were destroyed in the 19th century in an effort to separate the two beliefs.

The three-story pagoda shrine is located halfway up Mt. Nachi, and the vermilion-lacquered Shinto shrines can be seen lined up on the high ground that looks down at the ocean. 
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I was so mesmerized by the setting for the Nachi Taisha Shrine - the beauty of the architecture and how balanced it all was. Nature and the gentle unobstructed architecture of the temples harmony achieved with a gentle vision of a Buddhist monk looking for solitude. He created a Nirvana for visitors like me, in awe, admiring his fantastic vision.

​It makes me think that human will is bigger than any dream.

I have walked in Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan, China, South East Asia, but Kumano Kodo was the most therapeutic and spiritual walk I have ever experienced. One experience that corroborates what I have learned from all my previous walks, is that although Mother Nature sometimes is severe, She is also the image of goodness when we walk with respect and awe towards nature and the universe as the source of life with reverence, humility, and free of egos.
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The gods of Kumano Kodo accept all people. Everyone can find salvation including men, women, children, the young and old, the sick and the healthy. I did not come to Kumano Kodo to do a pilgrimage, I came to hike and enjoy nature. But something happened along the way - my hike became a meaningful pilgrimage. A source of faith, like an open book, introduced me to history, stone statues, temples, and shrines and most important allowed me to feel the Divine hiding within the nature. There were so many moments during this walk in which the beauty of the hike was a moment that took my breath away. I was left astounded and in awe.

Uganda, took me by surprise.  All I knew about Uganda prior to my trip was the decades of anarchy and civil unrest, Major General Idi Amin and the Entebbe raid episode in 1976 which was made into a movie some years ago.

And the rare mountain gorillas in Bwindi, the Impenetrable forest, the reason for my trip.

My trip started in Entebbe.

The Entebbe Airport is the country’s sole international airport. I flew from Johannesburg with South African Air.

Entebbe is located at the shores of Lake Victoria, and from the plane you can see that the city is almost entirely surrounded by the waters of Lake Victoria. The city is 21 miles from Kampala de Capital.

Adventure Consults, my tour operator in Uganda, provided me with a great VIP service inside the airport and quickly I was out. There is fee of USD $50.00 to obtain the visa upon arrival. Brian Mugume the owner of Adventure Consults was waiting for me at the luggage carrousel.

Outside the weather was comfortable; it was a little cloudy and it looked like rain had fallen earlier, but little humidity and heat. The country is located on the equator, with the weather being usually summer-like all year around.

My hotel was just 15 minutes from the airport, it was early afternoon and the traffic was busy although it was moving fast. My first impression was that Entebbe is a city on the move.

The lake really is beautiful and peaceful with lots of little boats cruising on the 2nd largest sweet water lake in the world. Seeing the extended portion of water makes you believe, for a moment, that Uganda is not a landlocked country.

My hotel, The Boma guest house - a bed and breakfast, was perfect for an overnight stay.  They had super comfortable beds, and it was very quiet with a little bit of a nice sanctuary away from the traffic and noise of the city. The property is in an upscale residential neighborhood and only 10 minutes from the airport.

The next day I was ready to travel to “Living my Adventure” in Uganda.  I know my reason to be here is to go to Bwindi and track the gorillas, but before I reached the Impenetrable forest, I would be visiting the rural area of Uganda.

Bryan told me that “the Kingdom of Uganda is a fairy tale” using the words Sir Winston Churchill used in his book:  “My African Journey”, Churchill was the one who nicknamed Uganda “the Pearl of Africa”.

I am an outdoor person, so I was thrilled to see with my own eyes this country that offers such a rich variety of nature, as Bryan described during dinner the night before, “a plethora of sites of nature”.  I was ready to walk its red dirt, see the wild animals, and enjoy the lakes, rivers and the impenetrable forest with the mountain Gorillas. This will be a trip of a life time.

I left early in the morning from the Entebbe Airport to Kasese District in the western part of the country to visit Queen Elizabeth National Park  
I flew in a new Cessna Caravan aircraft operated by Aerolink, super comfortable. I was told Uganda has a well-developed domestic air network.

The cloudless sky allowed for great views of the lake when departing and during the 1:30 flight, I was able to see how green Uganda truly is. The flight on Aerolink arrived at the Mweya/Kasese airstrip on time.

Robert, my guide, was waiting for me with his safari jeep outside the airstrip.

Kasese is also the good base to visit the Ruwenzori Mountain National Park. This range of mountains, located on the equator, has an interesting phenomenon. Their peaks are covered with perpetual snow. The other range of mountains with the same phenomenon is The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia.

The Queen Elizabeth National Park is one of Uganda’s three parks and it covers an area of 770 square miles one of the richest and most well managed parks in Africa.

The drive was pleasant and the Park is not too far from the airstrip, about a 12 mile drive, on a dirt road easily negotiated by two-wheel-drive vehicles. It was nice to have seen the small villages along the way, the peoples' daily lives, their roadside markets and the Rwenzori Mountains in the horizon.

The closer we got to the park the game-viewing increased. I saw bushbucks, troops of baboons on the side of the road, buffalo and elephants.

Queen Elizabeth has two beautiful lakes; Lake Edward and Lake George, both attached by an umbilical cord called the Kazinga Channel. After passing the Channel and Lake Edward I noticed much of the park is open savannah dotted with spectacular Acacias.

We were heading to Mweya Safari Lodge where I would be spending the night.

Before arriving, we stopped to see Katara Lodge located on the top of the Great Rift Valley.  With uninterrupted views of the savannah, 8 luxury thatched cottages built into the hill site overlooking the stunning savannah. The lodges are spacious with 2 double beds, balcony and a decent sized bathroom. The bed comes with wheels you can roll it to the balcony and sleep under the stars and wake up under the sunrise. I definitely recommend this property for its location, comfort and food. I had a wonderful lunch here.

Once I visited this property, we drove to Mweya Lodge. Meandering through the park, it was very calming to see the clean ecosystem.

I saw small fishing and salt villages existing within the boundaries of the park. According to Robert, during the civil war many were forced into exile and the war almost extinguished all the animals in the park, so it was refreshing to witness peace and stability after a long civil war.

​The Mweya Safari Lodge is one of the most highly rated hotels in Uganda.  The hotel is perched on the peninsula overlooking the Kazinga channel and Lake Edward - spectacular site.

After a nice fresh and healthy lunch, I was ready to do a unique boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel one of the major delights of coming to Queen Elizabeth National Park.  It can be done directly from the Mweya lodge. 

The Channel is a 20 mile long natural channel connecting two lakes: Lake George to the east and Lake Edward to the west. At the hotel I was told that from the shores of this channel come hundreds of hippos and I will be able to observe them from the safety of the boat at a much closer range, as well plentiful amount of Nile Crocodiles and many more wild animals.

The Boat operates from 3pm to 5pm local time.

This really was amazing to observe so much wildlife; I saw buffalos, waterbuck, elephants coming down to drink at the water edges and I saw a monitor lizard in the grass.

The small little fishing villages sit atop of the ridges of the channel.

Peoples' lives depend on this channel. Dozens of fishing boats were ready to go in the late afternoon, out to collect the abundance of fresh water fish that live in this channel. The mild warm breeze felt nice on my face while my eyes were fixed on the immense variety of water birds flowing above the blue water of the lake. I enjoyed the tremendous display of wildlife and birds.

The trip lasts bout 2 hours, and there are four trips each day from Mweya lodge: 9:00, 11:00, 15:00 and 17:00. I did the 3:00 PM and it was an unforgettable experience.

Back at the lodge I did an inspection. The lodge has 32 standard room, 12 deluxe rooms all with air condition, and two suites. This a great lodge for all ages, easy access to the rooms and good food. Service is the best, with young Ugandans working with a genuine smile. My dinner server was a boy no more than 18 years who told me he was scouted by the hotel at his village and trained at the hotel, and for him it was a great job working for the best hotel in Uganda. He studies English with a teacher at the hotel and learns about etiquette and food service.

My room was a deluxe room well furnished with a nice view to the channel from above the bluff. 

At night after dinner, I sat by the campfire outside the garden. It was pitch black, and above I could see thousands of bright stars. The cool breeze, the flickering and the sounds of the sparks from the fire made for a perfect night at the lodge.

Next day after an early morning rise and a good cup of a Uganda’s tea, I checked out of the Lodge. Next time I will allow myself more time in this wonderful hotel.

​Robert was waiting to take me for a morning game drive. I was not disappointed, as the first animal we spotted was a healthy beautiful Leopard along the track.

I saw plenty of elephants, cape buffalos and waterbucks.

The park on this side, north of the main gate, is an open savannah with lots of acacias trees and “Candelabra tree” Euphorbia trees.

It was beautiful to see small families of elephants making their way across the park in their search for water.

Robert and my driver, who is from the Kasese, told me about the crater lakes in the area and he took me to see one. The explosion craters as they are called at Queen Elizabeth are perfect round oculus left by extinct volcanoes, filled with sparkling waters. Some of them, like Lake Katwe, are used to extract salt.

To view these explosion craters which are situated in the highest elevation of Mweya Peninsula there is a drive of 27 Km. Robert, took me to a great viewing spot. From there I could see the entire view of the dramatic crater surrounded by tall elephant grassland and verdant forest, a perfectly round  mirror lake reflecting the open blue sky. It was a view like no other I have seen. 

Robert kept driving south through an extensive track of lush greenery, our next destination will be to see the famous tree climbing lions of Ishasha that are unique to this area.

To reach the lions, we arrived from the south-western rim of Queen Elizabeth park were the Ishasha rest camp is located, about two hours away from Mweya Lodge. While getting there we came across a large number of elephants, antelopes, water buffalos, and lots of acacias tress.

Only two parks in the world have these unique lions, Lake Manyara in  Tanzania and  Queen Elizabeth in Uganda. A habit not commonly found in other lion populations. No one knows why these lions like to climb trees, in this case in Uganda, the Fig trees, and lounge in the upper branches of the old trees.

When we arrived a family was in position of this giant tree. Even the cubs have the ability to climb up into the trees; there were two of them sleeping in the branches while the Lion and lioness were constantly looking down to us.

You can tell they just had their morning meal because their stomachs were full. Robert said they climb the trees to get away from the tsetse flies or on hot days, to escape the heat of the ground and take advantage of the cool breeze. For whatever the reason, it is unique to see them lazily lying up within the branches starting down at us, it was a great sight.

We did a couple of circuits and headed for lunch to Ishasha Wilderness Camp. The road is uneven and difficult at times, so it is very important to know about the weather conditions before you plan your trip to this side of the park.

The Lodge is completely isolated, hidden by tall vegetation and acacias savannah, and built along the Ntungwe River. It is completely eco-friendly, entirely made with local materials with its raised in-suite wooden deck cottages. There are 10 spacious tents, all overlooking the river. The lodge operates several wildlife game drive tours, along with a nearby village walk. 

I love the location, the isolation makes it so much more special. I had lunch in a quiet peaceful setting near the bank of the river. It was a great lunch with fresh fish, a phenomenal salad and white wine. It was very relaxing listening to the sound of the water passing by and the vigorous sounds of many birds. It’s definitely a place that invites you to be at peace with yourself and the surroundings. 

We left the park and drove south. The drive from Ishasha Wilderness Lodge to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest takes two hours. Once you exit the park, small villages start showing up and then another world unfolds in front of your eyes: The people of Uganda. In all my travels around the world I think Africans are the most welcoming people, so I was excited to experience life in rural Uganda.  

Robert told me we would be heading south towards Buhoma from where the gorilla viewing is conducted.

The road to Bwindi is just a typical gravel road, it was mid-afternoon and there were so many people walking along the road. It was so wonderful to observe the homesteads of the people and their plots surrounded by their gardens and fields with maize and coffee. Women were walking with their child strapped on their backs with colorful dresses adorned with beautiful lengths of cloths of many different colors and geometrics prints. I had the chance to stop and get acquainted with many of the people in these villages. A large number of people speak English and I had the chance to see an elementary school and interact with the children in their classrooms.  Beautiful children full of joy.

The drive took me through the countryside with a lot to see.

There is a bank in Kihiki that could be very useful if you need one before arriving in Bwindi which has none.

Once we passed these uphill towns with red and yellow dirt roads; the landscape changed immediately and I started seeing beautiful verdant hills and in front of us the steep mountains where Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is located. The road takes you through beautiful lush tea farms, and rolling hills surrounded by lowland forest vegetation.

You see more about peoples' lives like children in their school uniform walking along the road returning back to their home after a school day, a mother with the child on her back walking and other women balancing packages of stacked wood on their head for dinner that night. Young children corralling goats so they can stay in formation.  We saw lots of children playing in the dirt, and women with their colorful traditional dress talking under the shade of a tree. I felt good knowing that the people here live in peace and seem to be happy.

Bwindi was getting close and being on the edge of the rainforest made me happy. Robert told me that most typical rainforests in Uganda are found in the lowlands, bellow 3,000 feet, but Bwindi ranges in altitude between 3,800 and 8,553 feet and has the highest biological diversity and it is a super complex rainforest.

Mountain gorilla viewing is the major attraction in Bwindi and they live in this rainforest.

Rain was visible and a large heavy mist had engulfed the mountains. We definitely had arrived at the rolling hills of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  We passed the village craft shops and Robert informed me that the lodge was behind the gates of the park.

Once we passed the gate, Buhoma Lodge was on the right, tucked into hills. It has a great rustic appeal.

I was welcome by the manager, Anthony, and he took me into this open-air lounge/dining/bar area with very comfortable couches and an open charcoal fire around the furniture; the fire made the whole setting very cozy. 

This exclusive eco lodge has ten cottage suites, and offers spectacular views to the forest canopy.

It was nice seeing the mist rolling down while Anthony was giving me the briefing about the lodge. My cabin was the one at the top and the stairway was steep, but it comes with a nice handrail and even more amazing uninterrupted views of the pristine forest from the veranda.

I had very comfortable rooms with a jungle theme. Each cabin and its furniture are constructed from local timber and have very ample bathrooms with a good water source. There are no glass windows, just screens to keep out the bugs and curtains for privacy. At night, the staff turn down the beds and they leave behind hot water bottles and a good night glass of port.

Needless to say I slept very comfortably.

The food was excellent - Chef Ben made one of the best tomato soups I’ve ever eaten. All super fresh, homemade chocolate chip cookies and fresh baked bread, all meals were delightful, and the staff was super friendly and attentive.

I left the lodge the next day at 7:20AM for registration and briefing at Buhoma UWC (Uganda Wildlife Center commences at 7:30AM and gorilla trekking starts at 8:30AM.

The briefing provides instruction about appropriate gorilla etiquette with all the do’s and don’ts, once we contact the gorillas and their behavior. 

I was told we will drive 1 hour to my trekking point, we were going to track the Mubare family of gorillas, the first family to be tracked in Uganda.  Its habitatuation process started way back in 1991 and trekking started 1993. The location was in KINYABEHO which is in the neck of the Impenetrable National Park. 

Until recently Bwindi only had three gorilla groups, but now they have over 10  groups/families both in the North which is Buhoma side, Ruhinja and southern sectors of the park. Uganda Wildlife Authority is working on habituating more families. It takes 2 ½ years to habituate an entire family and it is an everyday process. Guides are sent to live with the Gorillas until they are habituated (used to human contact).

Groups are visited every day for an hour.
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The park provided for me 4 guards, and I asked for a porter because the trek will be strenuous and it will be very important to use one, it is only $20 USD and it made a big difference to have one as I found out while doing the trek.

The drive to the trekking point was breathtaking. It was beautiful to see the lush tea plantations growing in the fertile soil of the steep valleys and high ridges of Africa’s oldest rain forest. The more we drove on the steep dirt road, the viewing become better and better and the vegetation thicker and thicker.

We arrived to the trail head, and I could not believe I would begin my trekking to see one of the most amazing creatures that have captured humankind’s attention for years.

Today, like all the other creatures in the world, including us, we are facing an uncertain future - and I was here!

I finally arrived and in some hours I would be with a group of mountain gorillas.

Bwindi covers an area of  331Kms and  is the home of half of the world's mountain gorillas. There  are only 900 gorillas in the world ( according with one of my guides), and to think I would be seeing some of them in their own environment made me feel butterflies in my stomach.

We started the hike in the slopes of the jungle through bushes of tea. Once we passed the last bush of tea, the vegetation swallowed us and all I saw was jungle everywhere.

There were two guards and the porter in front of me and I was told the guards behind me were to protect me from elephants that live in the forest and they are very aggressive because they have very little contact with humans. 

We were engulfed by very tall trees with huge roots. The soil was covered with dead leaves and thick tangled vegetation making the walk slippery and difficult at times. There was lots of dead wood, making the walk even more difficult.

I saw woody plants with long slender stems hanging everywhere, very obtrusive and covering pretty much everything - hence the name “impenetrable”. The guards in front of me used their machetes to open up the trail.

Gloves are important as there are a lot of prickly thorns and bushes everywhere. I am glad I brought my leather gloves.

I’ve never seen so many varieties of tree ferns with beautiful green foliage full of life looking healthy, and also very tall bamboo. The guards pointed out to me the mahogany trees; these were very large trees about 180-200 feet tall with long trunks and large massive crowns. There were other trees with massive buttress trunks. After some hours of walking we sat down on a fallen trunk to take a break. 

The forest was silent after the early morning chorus of the birds. I opened my eyes and sat down still to listen to the silent forest.

One of the guards advised that the gorilla situation changes continually and we need to be on the move. The UWA had sent ahead of us two more guards to find the location of the Gorilla family we were trekking for. The trackers and the guard were in constant communication through their walkie talkies.

I have hiked in other rain forests:  Laos, China, Colombia, Peru, Malaysia and the Pacific Islands, and I’ve learned that no two rain forests are alike, but this true African rainforest was very impressive with a beautiful canopy.

The porter who is from a village close by told me that these mountains are where the people in his village find a variety of medicinal plants. The porter was excellent. There were times all I had to do was to give him my hand and let him guide me. Since there were so many obstacles and having that hand holding really helped me to not slide through the wet soil.

​It is very important to wear boots or shoes that supply good traction.

We had walked about 5 hours, when suddenly we arrived at a riverside with an open lowland forest. The men sent by the park had brought us here where a mother gorilla was with her two young gorillas.

The first thing I noticed was their coarse black coats. They were so close I could reach my hand and touch any of the young gorillas.

The proximity took me by surprise. I know the guards told me in the gorillas briefing that they will be at least 7 feet away from us.

Once you are with them, 7 feet looks very close. So the adrenaline starts coming soon to your brain and panic is your first reaction. But luckily the guards and guides are very familiar with trekkers' emotions and they know how to calm you down so you can enjoy this amazing thrill.

​I was finally seeing gorillas.  My first encounter with gorillas.

I was mesmerized by the appearance of the mama gorilla with its large mouth and flaring nostrils. She was looking at me with those dark deep-set eyes beneath beady brows.

The first eye contact is the most exciting and poignant wild life encounter in  the whole of Africa, and for me it was love at first sight. 

Their eyes are so humanlike, but with a deeper gaze that almost takes your breath away once eye contact is done.

The Silverback is always vigilant and that day he was easily annoyed by us following him and his family everywhere, so he was acting up and showing his power to the guards by standing up and making gorilla angry sounds.

There was one time I wanted to run, but I was sandwiched in by two of the guards that held me by my shoulders and with a firmed voice they said to me “DO NOT RUN”.

Seeing this massive, powerful animal, six feet in height and 600 pounds charging us a couple of times was scary, but the guards knew how to control the situation.

For the most part the gorillas are quiet, self-centered animals, antagonistic to men only when wounded or provoked. But the silverback was afraid we would take the babies away because he sometimes could not see them or us because of the dense vegetation.

They are very protective of their clan and they fight to the death to protect their family. My hour was captured by these gentle giants, eating leaves, and stems, and the infant gorillas playing and amusing each other. 

The trekking was captivating and an unforgettable experience which more than repays the effort of the strenuous hike. The walk is hard, but this is quickly forgotten during the magic hour spent with the mountain gorillas.

Gorilla trekking can be challenging and one needs to be reasonably fit to undertake this venture into activity.

I was glad to know that visits to the gorillas are strictly controlled to ensure the sustainability of the gorilla families.

The mountain gorilla is facing an uncertain future, so limited well-regulated, expensive fees are allowing the government and local communities to preserve gorillas and their habit.

Once the hour passed, we returned back to meet our driver located in a difference position of the park. The return was not bad as it was shorter.

The rain comes quickly and the rainforest soil becomes a slippery carpet of chocolate mud. The rain makes the forest look greener and the water refreshes and brings more life to the jungle.

Gorilla trekking tips

• Dress in layers
• Be sure to bring a bandana to mop your brow (it is very humid).
• Rain at all times throughout the day, so a poncho or other rain gear is good idea. 
• Lots of liquids should be arranged.
• Leather gloves, long-sleeved shirt and long trousers.
• Layering in clothing is good idea.
• A walking stick that you can get from the lodge or the UWA meeting point. 

Buhoma lodge offers free massages as a complimentary amenity, and the night before I scheduled with the manager a massage after my trekking.

The Buhoma lodge also has free laundry, and they cleaned and dried my hiking boots. 

Bwindi is not just a stopping off place for the gorillas.

The village offers several community tours, a beautiful hike to the nearby waterfall, and visits to mixed crop farms owned by the local Bantus, to see how they live in their traditional settlements.

Near the main entrance of the gate there are great woodcarving shops with a large selection of masks from Uganda, Congo and nearby countries.

I did a visit to the Batwa “pygmies” the next day; a short hike from the village took me to see the oldest peoples in Africa.

The Batwas were forced out of the national park, losing their land. They are full of energy, their ability to make fire in a matter of minutes was amazing. I enjoyed their stories and knowledge of the land and spiritual beliefs.

They still roam the forest looking for fruits and honey and they hunt with bows still.

The Munyanga River Trail in the valley below Buhoma park office provides an ideal short walk to view birds and primates along the forest edge. The trail leads through one of Uganda’s most pristine tracks of rainforest, passing beneath tree ferns. 

After a great adventure, next day we drove to Kahihi airstrip in time for my 9:45AM flight to Entebbe. It was Sunday and seeing everyone in their best dresses walking to their churches was so beautiful.

Uganda is rich with a great variety of nature’s endowments, mountains, lakes, swamps, plains, tropical forest, and because of its geographical position, astride the equator, Uganda has a summer-like climate throughout the year; it is ideal to visit at any time.

Uganda is a blessed country, and the biggest blessing of all is its people. The whole country is populated with friendly folks, they are quick to laugh, make jokes, smile, and offer assistance.

I just hope for Uganda to maintain its freedom, peace and tranquility so we all can benefit from its beauty.

Nothing compares to having someone on ground who has an intimate understanding of the destination and Brian Mugume the owner of Adventure Consults was definitely the person I needed in this new adventure. When I spoke with him months before my trip, I knew he was the one that would take me to Bwindi Impenetrable Jungle to see the mountain gorillas.

Best of South India

The south of India has great cities with fascinating histories, fabulous food, amazing monuments and captivating landscapes.

I was very excited to come back to India and explore the southern region.
Mumbai, formally known as Bombay, “India’s maximum city” was my first stop.  

I arrived late after a relatively short flight from Dubai. Having an e-visa made the pass through the immigration booth easy. The service provided by Peirce and Leslie whisked me out the airport and in 10 minutes I was in the car.  

Mumbai

​"The Island of Mumbai stretches 11 miles along the Gulf of Cambay in the Arabian Sea." the guide informed me while the car moved quickly through the modern and beautiful suspended cable bridge.

I was surprised to learn that Mumbai was an island, for some reason I never knew.

​“Before the Bandra-Worli Sea Link, it took forever to reach the airport. Now it connects the western suburbs of Mumbai to the island of Worli,” I was informed by the representative of Peirce and Leslie.

The first image of Mumbai appeared in front me. Hundreds of street lights were lined along the coast glowing in the darkness. I saw the bright lights forming a perfect crescent.

“We call the streets lights the Queen‘s Necklace” said the man. "The street lights at night resemble a string of pearls in a necklace”
  
We reached the hotel by midnight. The atrium of the Oberoi’s lobby was impressive, with tall windows, a black granite water fountain and a red grand piano.  

​The Oberoi, Mumbai

I was tired after 20+ hours of flying from Dallas, and I was eager to get to my room. My room on the 11th floor was perfect and the bed had one of the best mattresses I have ever slept on.

The next morning I woke up eager to see my view. My room had large windows overlooking the Arabian Sea. The sun was already up and hiding behind a dense misty sea breeze.

On my first tour in Mumbai, we visited Dharavi, the second largest slum in Asia, with more than a million people living in the labyrinth. 
 
The streets of Mumbai are no different than any other city in India. Anyone who has experienced a street in India knows how insane they are with the mass transit, hordes of people walking, not on the sidewalk but on the carriage-way, street vendors and the constant noise; it is a sight to behold.
But at the same time the vibrancy and energy around makes up for the chaos.  

We arrived at the outskirts of the slum, and the guides were waiting to give a briefing of what I will see behind the bridge that connects the city with the slum. They also gave me important information and talked about the history of the place, advising me that photos are not allowed.

The guides were born and raised in the slums, their parents were raised in the slums, their grandparents died in the slums - Three generations of residents. They spoke English very well, and some of them were in the university, while their parents work in the recycling industry in the slum.

Below the bridge, there were dozens of railroads tracks dividing the city from the marshland where the slum is. Mumbai has 8 million people living in slums, and Dharavi is the largest one. We passed the bridge and descended to the streets of Dharavi.

Visually you need to accommodate and get rapidly acquainted with the rhythm of the place. Hundreds of shanty houses built in layers, piles of trash with hives of people disappearing in the tiny labyrinths and black smoke.  

The guides were right when they told me this was not an ordinary slum. They said that Dharavi is the place where the trash gets cleaned and transformed, and they were not kidding. Here products like foam, cardboard, computers, cords, toys and plastic bags, just to name a few, are transformed to a new life, creating one of the most dynamic sub-economic industries. Here the recycling is in full swing.

Everyone was busy doing something, inside small tiny rooms I saw men transforming something into a product that will be sold to the US and Europe. Soon you realize that the priority here is making money. There is no doubt this is an industrial slum with row upon row of identical cramped shacks erected by semi-skilled workers, many without toilets or water.

People live and work in layers of buildings used as workshops and homes.  Some are occupied with sewing machines, cutting tables, piles of cables, card boards sometimes 10 people cramped under the same roof, made all the less attractive by the smoke, dirt and odors meandering from their open sewers.

This was an experience like no other. Some of these people are just entrepreneurs with great skills, with thousands of small–scale industries thriving.

Dharavi, as a whole, generates revenue of about USD $500 million annually, a significant contribution to Mumbai’s economy. It gave me a great exhilaration coming to see this urban slum and the industrial people who inhabit it.

I saw many smiles, living under a few square feet in the midst of a sea of dirt, many happy people attending to their jobs.

My first day in Mumbai, and I could not wait for more excitement! I was transformed by the last experience and now with eagerness I wanted to keep feeling the pulse of Mumbai. 

I woke up early the next day and decided to walk the Marine Drive pavement, a 3.6 Km long C-shaped boulevard lined with palm trees with the beach on one site and dozens of buildings of low-rise Art Deco style.

It was early and the day just barely showed its first light, but the Marina drive was already busy with walkers, joggers, and young couples showing their love. There were homeless picking up their shelter from the night before, dogs sleeping on the walking space, people doing yoga and praying with their hands raised to the sky welcoming the sun rise. I was surprised by seeing the energy of people from all walks of life, coming here to enjoy the footpath. I had the most pleasant brisk walk and a good opportunity to experience Mumbai intimately. 

In the afternoon, Peirce and Leslie took me to see the Victorian-Gothic UNESCO heritage site Chatrapati Shivaji (formerly Victoria) Terminus, built in 1888 when Mumbai was Bombay, and designed by the British architect F.W.  Stevens. 

​The structure became a symbol of Bombay (Mumbai) and the city was labeled the 'Gothic City' due to these magnificent buildings' architectural styles. Mumbai is the most European in appearance of all cities in India.

Victoria Terminus (think London’s St. Pancras, but with Indian touches) is Mumbai’s finest building and right next to the station is the High Court and the soaring Rajabai Clock Tower. 

Seeing the torrent of people flowing in the direction of Victoria Terminus to be swallowed into the mouth of the railway station was an experience. I stood motionless observing the rush of people aiming the same direction and in equal hurry.

Another beautiful monument is the iconic and almost theatrical Gateway of India; once the entrance of Bombay for visitors debarking from ships in the city’s harbor.

For centuries, Mumbai has profited largely by being the first important port reached by European, Chinese, African, Arab and Persian vessels. During the United States Civil War, Mumbai thrived as a result of the cotton shortage, and during that time its population doubled. Then the opening of the railroads and the Suez Canal, made Mumbai the “gateway of India”.

After the gateway, I went to see the Dabbawalas, the people who ferry lunch boxes with a system of mathematics that became the envy of FedEx.  The delivery is carried out by an army of men identified by their white uniforms, topped off with the traditional Gandhi cap. These men all came from the same region and have made a very efficient process of feeding thousands daily for 100 years now.  

Next the Mumbai Public Laundry, a place where the native washer men perform their daily chores. Built around 1890, it is the world’s largest outdoor laundry where more than 100,000 garments are scrubbed in deep concrete pens daily.  It is a photographer’s delight, and for me it was the city’s oddest attraction, just to see how Mumbai dares to air its dirty laundry.

The famous Spice market in Mumbai was an awesome experience. Being able to walk and “levitate” in the veritable cloud of smells that seduce you with the aromas of traditional food coming from the little shops filled with all kind of spices, mounds of chilies, tea and sophisticated coffee beans.

​Here, I loved the way Mumbai smells.  

Another attraction in Mumbai is the mansion Mani Bhavan where Mahatma Gandhi lodged regularly. The house is filled with books and pictures and you can observe the simple quarters where Gandhi slept and lived, preserved much like they were when he stayed here.

Mumbai, India’s city of dreams is today a mega metropolis of 28 million people. When it was given as a dowry of the Infanta Catherine upon her marriage to Charles II in 1661, it had a population of only 10,000.

Today, the city is constantly evolving. Few places in the world are more intensely urban than Mumbai, a timeless city with an energetic present and aspired future.

Please, when in Mumbai visit the Bombay Canteen - great food local and also from Goa.

Chennai

The flight from Mumbai to Chennai is 2 hours. The flight crosses over the magnificent range of the Eastern Ghats to reach the Bay of Bengal where the port of Chennai is located on the southeast coast.

Chennai, formally Madras, is the capital of the state of Tamil, also a major metropolitan city and the hottest and most humid place I have ever been. Summers are really hot here.

​It is called the "Detroit of India", due to the manufacturing of cars by automotive companies like Ford, Hyundai, and BMW etc.
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Just 2 hours drive from Chennai, taking the East Coast Road, is the UNESCO World heritage site and seaport of Mahabalipuram and where the sanctuaries, carved out of living rock are situated. In the time of the explorers, these temples, carved near the shorelines, were used as land stamps for their ships.

These 7th- Century monuments known as pancha Rathas (five rathas) are one of the most popular tourist attractions. These sanctuaries are a wonderful work done by students under the patronage of Pallava King Rajasimha who was noted for his patronage of architecture, the finest example being the Shore Temple, overlooking the Bay of Bengal. The Pallavas are left-behind architectural masterpieces made of granite blocks, like the figure of the cat carved out of living rock or the herd of elephants animals carved in huge monolithic rocks, some as long as 96 feet.
  
The best times to visit Chennai are October and December. Summers are truly hot and it is not an enjoyable time for travel.

The Leela palace hotel in Chennai is gleaming with opulence and the hotel is an experience in Chennai. It is very comfortable, with splendid bathrooms.  The staff is courteous and very helpful.  It has a wonderful Chinese restaurant, China XO, where I had the best Peking Duck I have ever eaten.

The location is a little odd as the back of the hotel faces a very underdeveloped slum and the sea behind this area is polluted - not a pretty view.  But this is India - a nation of unparalleled contrasts. 

While in Chennai please visit Mylapore, one of the oldest parts of the city and houses the ancient Mylapore Temple, as well as the Santhome Church, built by the Portuguese in 16th century.

Kochi

Kochi was the center of the Indian Spice trade for many centuries, known by Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs and Chinese. The Portuguese were here followed by the Dutch. It finally ceded to the British in 1814 and in the 20th century was declared a major port by the government of India in 1936. The city has an extraordinary history as it was visited by St. Thomas. Vasco de Gama died in Kochi and St. Francis Xavier made several converts here.  

Kochi is divided between the old section of Mattancherry and the modern part, Ernakulum.

The old district is well known for its many beautiful sights, such as the Paradesi Synagogue, Jew Town and Mattancherry Palace.

I was most impressed by the Dutch architecture throughout the charming Heritage Zone mixed with the British plantation style houses. Each architectural style reflects the history of the place. You can see the St. Francis Church, with its cemetery serving as the resting ground of Vasco de Gama. The all-Dutch cemetery is particularly beautiful, very near the shore.  Consecrated in 1724, it is the oldest European cemetery in India.

The Paradesi Synagogue displays spectacular hand-painted Chinese porcelain floor titles.

A must-see is the beautiful Mattancherry Palace with its carved ceilings and stunning murals portraying scenes from the Hindu tales.  

I liked the small streets and the old buildings giving form to the district. It made me think of a very old woman but with great bones. Kochi speaks of an old-world charm.

Another major attraction is the Chinese fishing nets in the Cochin harbor, and the best way to experience it, is by doing a cruise (I recommend during the sunset). You will see row upon row of Chinese fishing nets.

The Bruntomn Boatyard, the hotel where I stayed, has its own vessel that departs from its private dock for a fascinating sunset cruise.  

While visiting the hotel, make sure you eat at their History Restaurant. It has the best traditional Kerala cuisine with very unique food. Their meals are really prepared to perfection. I enjoyed the beautiful mutton curry with a great drink selection.  

An early walk in the morning through the city is a must. Especially around the Parade Ground and walk through the residential quarter to observe the many examples of charming Portuguese–era houses like the Vasco house.  Then you must also experience “breakfast on the lawn”.

When in this city please watch a private performance of Kathakali, the most well-known theater production of Kerala from the 17th century. This production combines drama, dance, music and costumes with some of the most striking and elaborate makeup.

It is easy to explore Fort Cochin. For sight-seeing, the Dutch palace will be a great choice. The fort is built in the traditional Kerala style with four buildings around a central courtyard. The palace is adorned with the best mythological murals in India with an impressive portrait gallery of the Cochin Rajas.

I really like Kochi City and found it to be a very welcoming place - Great for shopping, too!

Another great hotel to stay at is the Malabar House, a boutique hotel that feels very cozy and personal. It’s located just few minutes from St. Francis Church and the parade ground.

A visit to Kerala is incomplete without touring the backwaters.

Approximately 1.5 hours from Kochi is Alappuzha known as the “Venice of India”. Here I enjoyed a houseboat, originally a rice boat, but refurbished into a comfortable houseboats with bedrooms and showers. The boat took me for a panoramic ride through the backwater for an aqua-tourism experience in the Vembanad Lake.

​This voyage towards the north of Alappuzha brought me to lush green paddy fields, sleepy little village and I saw a huge variety of birds and plants. The fresh water of the lake runs into the mainland making a labyrinth of lagoons and canals. This lake resort is an unparalleled boating experience. The boat ride ended in Kumarakom, a lake resort which I think is a little bit of paradise on earth. 

The resort looks like an old village from the region with beautiful meandering pools and villas. The food and service was excellent. The bathrooms in all the villas are outside, and going at night to the bathroom can be challenging. I found it so because of the mosquitoes and the door was heavy and difficult to close.  

​Hyderabad

After a two hour drive from Kumarakom to Kochi I took a flight to Hyderabad, about a 1½ hour flight.

The airport in Hyderabad is modern well organized airport and clean. Leaving the airport is when you encounter the humming of traffic, lots of people, street food and roadside stalls selling anything and everything.

Paupers and their shelters, all along with the sweet and spicy combination of the smells, make Hyderabad not much different from the other cities in India.
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Hyderabad is part of the great Deccan territory, and has both mountains and level surfaces. 

The History of Hyderabad is overwhelming like the rest of Indian’s history.  But Hyderabad’s history comes with many wars and very rich rulers that left a deep mark on the city’s landscape. Just in 1948, Hyderabad was consummated with India. It was ruled by a Muslim family from 1724 until 1853 when the Nizam Dynasty, with help of the British, took control of the city and its riches.

It is a very interesting city culture-wise, different from the rest of India. I’ve learned, during my visits to India, that there is more than one India, and Hyderabad shows me that this statement is true.

It is India but different. Different flavors and smells, it is very Muslim-feeling at first, but then you also distinguish the Hindu.

Here I stayed in India’s latest palace hotel - the Falaknuma Palace.

Falaknuma means “Mirror of the Sky” in Urdu.

The Palace was the private property of the Nizam of Hyderabad. It closed in the 1950’s and was restored in 2010 by the Taj group. Originally designed by an English architect with Italian and Tudor influences, the palace sits on a hill with panoramic views across Hyderabad below.

The arrival ceremony was spectacular. From the palace gate I was taken by a horse-drawn carriage to the Grand Staircase where a shower of rose petals followed me to the vestibule of the Palace.

Inside it is home to priceless art and artifacts. Once I stepped inside the vestibule, the Falaknuma Palace transformed into a fairytale; a world that disappeared more than half a century ago.

Its walls and ceilings were adorned with frescoes, Greek urns and alabaster nymphs. You really feel you are in a home, as there is no reception desk and no concierge.

I was welcomed and taken to my suite in the Zenana wing by my butler.

The property has 60 rooms and suites all beautiful appointed with regal canopied beds, rich tapestry, oak floors and the bathrooms are wonderful.

The whole room was perfumed with jasmine.

The evening of my arrival I met with the in-house palace historian, Mr. Mahindrakar, who took me around the palace telling me the fascinating history of the Palace and pointing out its highlights.

The library is inspired by the one at Windsor Castle with the Carrera marble lamps. The beautiful jade room is very special. I admired in particular the dining hall that can seat 101 guests with the longest dining table in the world. The Palace is full of Venetian chandeliers and teak and walnut furniture. Everyone is welcome to use the furniture and nothing is restricted from the guests. It is truly a living and functional museum.

The food was excellent and the best Martinis I’ve ever had. I took a cooking class with executive chef Sajesh Nair who taught me how to cook the legendary dish Hyderabad mutton biryani cooked with the most wonderful spices. The Cuisine of Hyderabad borrowed heavily from the Persians and Mughals  - very different from the north of India.

Hyderabad is an enchanting city to explore and Peirce and Leslie had put together a great list for sightseeing.

The Paigah Tombs - a Hyderabad’s hidden heritage. You really need to look for this site carefully, because it is in a maze of alleys and you can miss the entry. It is hidden behind a tree in a quiet neighborhood.

Once you pass the arched gate, you are in this extraordinary piece of history that remains ignored by tourists. The lime and mortar tombs are 200 years old, and they house the final resting place of several members of the Paigah family who were loyal to the Nizams and married some of their daughters. The tombs are exceptionally and intricately carved with geometrical patterns inlaid on the marble. Each tomb was designed differently; some has floral motifs, inscriptions about their lineage and imprinted epitaphs.

The Charminar is the most famous landscape in Hyderabad. Built in 1591, it is a majestic centerpiece with four towering and distinctive minarets, one on each of the building’s four corners. The location is perfect, surrounded by the city and a bustling Laad Bazaar, which I recommend to visit.

For some reason, in the midst of the cacophony of sounds, the incessant traffic, blaring horns and the pandemonium of humanity, this Indo-Islamic majestic building looks solitary, serene and peaceful. But this is India in the midst of chaos - you can find a focal point to rest your eyes and make the world stop around you.

The Charminar area is the perfect place to feel the pulse of this amazing city.

The day I visited was the celebration of the birthday of the Hindu monkey-god Lord Hanuman, and the area was inundated by devotees participating in the procession. Very colorful sight; men dressed as the Hindu monkey on the streets, everything was orange and the procession was spectacular.

The participants were warm and eager to show you how they celebrate their festivities and their joy of living.  A great cultural experience this was.  

Golconda Fort is another historical and impressive place of India and is located in the western part of Hyderabad.

This impressive medieval fort is located in a hilltop named Golla Konda in Telugu or Shepherd’s Hill. My Guide told me the story of a shepherd boy who had come across an idol considered Holy. The King heard of the discovery and decided to build a mud fort around it. After 200 years, another ruler took possession of the place and converted the fort into the massive granite fort it is today.
  
Absolutely a marvelous and magical place extending 5 Km in circumference, the fort comes with 8 gates and 87 bastions. Within the fort are the royal palaces, the harem, halls for public and private audiences, royal baths and a temple. For a building done in the 12th century, and originally a mud fort, it still looks very majestic. 

The fort was designed with a system of acoustics. To prove this, my guide asked one of the guards to clap. The echo quickly traveled. The guide said the sound of the clapping at the entrance can be heard at the highest point of the fort and almost a kilometer away.  

For certain, the Fort, one of the most iconic structures of India, is an impressive place.

India is not an ordinary place. Life there is spontaneous, acceptable and present. India’s images and impressions stay with you for the rest of your life. I also look upon Indian history and culture with great sensibility and admiration. 

Outside the cozy and surprisingly small Ljubljana airport, the driver was waiting for me with the sign of Luxury Slovenia.
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It took 30 minutes from the airport to the new and chic Intercontinental Hotel. I was told by the driver that the Airport is 16 miles from Ljubljana. 

The Intercontinental is in an ideal location, just ten minutes stroll to the old city. The hotel is truly stunning, with a tall glass façade and a laid back elegance.
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I was greeted warmly by the General Manager, Mr. Milos Cervix, and Alex at the front desk. The lobby was busy with Italians and Austrians enjoying their holiday in Ljubljana.

My Junior Suite was luxurious and spacious with a great panoramic view. It was high tech and easy to operate, the bathroom was all in marble, and I really liked the two large round mirrors hanging above the twin sinks with a wraparound fluorescent lights.

​The location is perfect, next to the train station and within walking distance to the Old Town. The Lounge Club Intercontinental was decorated beautifully and had stunning views and superb service with wonderfully dedicated staff. ​

I was eager to explore the city, and Urska, the guide provided by Luxury Slovenia, was waiting for me at the lobby. She quickly whisked me away.

​We had dinner reservations at the top of Ljubljana castle.

While walking to the old town I began to discover the beautiful capital of Slovenia, a city founded in 1461. Ljubljana was populated by Slovenes during the second half of the sixth century, then came the Romans who inhabited here and called the city Emona, then the Visigoth, Attila the Hun, Hapsburgs, Germans, Italians and Yugoslavia.  The area has been inhabited since the first millennium BC. Ljubljana has been the cultural center of Slovenia for centuries.  

Urska knew her city well and she explained the significance of the city to me. She pointed out majestic buildings like the surreally colorful building called the Cooperative Commercial Bank. It had a very colorful façade styled with the traditional Slovenian iconography painted by the wife’s architect. There are other extremely beautiful buildings created by Joze Plecnik, a distinguished architect and urban planning engineer for many cities in Europe. The Art Nouveau period is very much alive in his buildings.

​We arrived at Preseren Square, a thriving point of interaction with a magnificent 16th century Baroque Franciscan church, like a big pink birthday cake. 

It was Friday night and the Square was filled with people. Beautiful Christmas lights flowed in the air in the shape of stars, constellations and cosmic swirls hanging from pine trees and buildings - A magical sight like a page from a fairy tale book.

Urska, was taking me through the streets and my eyes were transfixed on the beautiful Baroque and Art Nouveau bridges crossing the Ljubljana River. Most impressive was the Dragon Bridge with four large dragons that look almost real guarding either end of the bridge. Spectacular.

We arrived at the funicular railway to Ljubljana Castle. The castle is perched on top of a hill, called Castle Hill.  A beautiful magnificent building built by Emperor Frederick III in the second half of the 15th century to defend the city against the Ottoman army. From the top Urska says, “The castle offers a view to die for!”

The funicular takes 2 minutes to reach the top of the Castle, where dinner was awaiting for us. Urska mentioned again that this is a must do while in Ljubljana. It is a main attraction to eat at this restaurant.
 
The restaurant is located in the former Archer’s tower accessible by a winding staircase or by elevator.  The room is magical with its medieval theme a perfectly round tower with beautiful frescos covering all the walls. In the middle was a giant chandelier designed to look like flashing arrows. It is a gorgeous space with views to Ljubljana below.

The round walls tell the story of a city with peasant folklore. Every panel tells a traditional story of how the world and living beings were created. Here you’ll find tales about mythical animals like dragons, magical fairytale beings, wandering souls and stories of their old conquests. Urska knew several of the stories, and some of them were mostly sad about Slovenia’s conquered past.

The restaurant is called Strelec and the food was phenomenal. The menu is thoroughly Slovenian.  My first meal in Slovenia was a beautiful surprise.

​Every dish had a different kind of meat. Meat has been around for centuries in Ljubljanan cuisine, and that night the chef prepared for me an entrée of marinated veal, with Jerusalem artichokes, smoked liver, with hazelnuts. The main dish was beef tail with potato puree along with kale with bacon, Brussels sprouts and kale chips. Desert was cooked milk with cinnamon flowers, crispy rice, pear, and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream.

I think that was the most tender veal I’ve eaten, and the creamiest ice cream I have tasted with a great mix of sweetness and texture.

The wine selection was perfect and my taste buds fell in love with the excellent choice of wines, all from Slovenia. It was a surprise to know that Slovenia has great wine.
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Great wine paired with extraordinary and authentic food and the allure of the 900 year-old castle was my first date with this magical city. I have eaten in many Michelin restaurants and would definitely say this restaurant is worthy of Michelin stars.

The next day Urska was waiting for me in the lobby ready to take me to another adventure. We would be driving via Karavanke and the Julian Alps UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Triglav National Park NW of Slovenia, to Bled; the former Yugoslavia’s Alpine summer with immense natural beauty.

Bled is located 1,560 feet above sea level; five miles from Austrian borders. It is on the rail line connecting Trieste, Belgrade with Munich and Vienna.  
The more we left the city behind, the more the snow became thicker and covered pretty much everything.

Urska said it had snowed all night and stopped at the early hours of the day. Ljubljana had been covered  with a beautiful powdered snow.

Once we left the city, the drive became more and more beautiful. Like a large screen in a movie set, the roads unfolded with the most majestic views of the Julian Alps and the Triglav National Park covered with the powdery snow. The sky cleared, and the color was perfect a soft blue with white thin clouds crossing the sky like feathers.  
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Right away my senses awakened and I knew I was in a very special natural wonder.

We passed by the long-recognized symbol of Slovenia, Lake Bled, on our way to Triglav National Park Mountain, making a full stop on the way back.

While driving through these majestic views, Urska told me about an old Slovenian saying: When God was deciding what part of the earth to give to each nation, the Slovenians spoke up: “What about us?” and He said:  “For you Slovenians, I gave you the part I wanted for myself.”
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Indeed, I had the feeling I was in a perfect Eden.

Vogel was our next stop. The road was easy and you would never think you were in a mountain terrain.  It was a very easy drive from Bled to the Bohinj valley - so beautiful, peaceful, and with little hamlets and churches by the road - just a fairytale in a winter wonderland.

I kept asking Urska to stop the car. I needed to get out to feel the snow and breathe the pure air. I think this would be the place the fairy godmother would live for sure. It is so magical.

Vogel lies within the Triglav National Park. Parking was easy. We parked next to the Vogel cable station.

The Upper cable car took us to 1,500 meters above sea level quickly, and the view from then cable car was spectacular. Being so high in the Alps gives you a sense of pureness, the morning light shimmering in the snow and on the rock of the Alps. They look magnificent, rigid and strong, petrified in their beautiful presence.  
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Urska said the mountain’s favorable snow conditions make Vogel the perfect destination for Skiing. I saw many people and tourists from as far away as Singapore skiing on top of the mountain.

Lunch at the top was great. Once again it was authentic Slovenian food. My soup had several kinds of beans, wheat, carrots and sausage. I was surprised that Slovenians eat so much beans, like Latinos. Urska also ordered another soup with a different kind of beans that resembled a soup I ate in Colombia which had the same kind of beans.

The view from the top of Vogel is breathtaking. The Alps, the valleys and the lake below make a postcard that will forever stay imprinted in your memory.  

We arrived at Lake Bled where Brdo Estate is located, once the residence of President Tito.  

The Estate belonged to Austrian Duchy of Carniola, until 1920, when it fell into Yugoslavia. It was a very impressive building with beautiful views over the lake.  

Luxury Slovenia arranged for a traditional Pletna boat to take me to see Natural Island, which is without a doubt one of the premier attractions of the area, looking like a decoration on a wedding cake with its church and its Venetian tower.  

The Pletna boat leaves you at the steps of a monumental staircase with 99 stone steps leading to the top of the island. The church, The Assumption of Mary, dates from the 17th century and features a 54m high tower with a remarkable wishing bell. If you ring the bell of the church of The Assumption, your wishes will come true.

​The next stop was Bled castle, truly a cool medieval castle above the lake. It is just magical and so well preserved. The panoramic terraces of the castle offer an extraordinary view over the region, and the stretching mountain range of the Karavanke and the Julian Alps.

Urska told me the story of The “Sun Doctor”, a Swiss Doctor known as the father of Naturism. He used the castle to perform his therapies in the middle of the 19th century. His famous quote is “Water is good, air is better, and most of all the sunlight.” 
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The castle, dating from 1011, has an imposing Gothic defense tower.  

With immense natural beauty, Bled with its beautiful surroundings is definitely Slovenia’s leading Alpine all year resort. I thought it was one of the most romantic and charming destinations I have visited in all my travels. And because of its climate and situation, Bled, for years, has attracted people who wanted to spend their holidays in a healthy and clean environment - people looking for healing in the thermal baths, walking paths, and hospital founded by the Swiss hydro therapist Arnold Rikli.

Bled indeed is a magical place where you can enjoy the health benefits of the region and feel the energy that glows from its mountain and the forest. It is a place that balances the synergy of earth, water, and sun. 

The next day, Luxury Slovenia took me to the next adventure in the region of Inner Carniola, to see Predjama Castle. It’s a fortification perched high up on a vertical cliff in the gaping mouth of a cavern. It is really a sight, especially when the snow is covering its surrounding areas. A truly medieval castle with well-preserved furniture in the living quarters, it has a chapel with a beautiful pieta dating to 1420 and a dungeon. The private guide told me the legend of Erazem of Predjama, the ‘Slovenian Robin Hood’, and the mysterious tunnel cave. Behind the castle you still see the steps he built to reach the entry of this legendary tunnel.  

The castle is very dramatic - a must-see, as it has something very special about it.  

Next we went to the enchanted underground world of the Karst region to see the Postojna Cave, the most visited cave in Europe, and it’s connection to the Predjama Castle.

The cave is a legendary tourist attraction. It has been open for tourism for 200 years and hosted over 38 million people from all over the world.  

Petra, my new guide, took me to get the tickets for the cave, and I brought my private guide that luxury Slovenia had for me. These are the most shown caves in the world with an electric train that takes you 2km into the hall of the Great Mountain, or the” bowels of the earth”, as my guide called it. This was followed by a wonderful walk back through beautiful, intertwining and extraordinary underground passages and chambers with spectacular drop stones, pillars and limestone curtains - the most beautiful I’ve seen. The water that emerges and disappears below the surface carved great underground caves and created fantastic shapes.  

With the very scientific and great explanation of the guide, I managed to learn a good amount of cave science, known as Speleology. I was pleased to realize that the world is actually bigger, since it reaches further under the Earth’s surface.  

Next we visited the charms of the Lipica Stud Farm to see the legendary Lipica white stallions.

​The driving through Slovenia is such a joy, everything is close, and within no more than 2 hours you can be in a completely different environment and topography. The roads are super modern, with excellent street signs, super clean. The bridges that connect gorges and overpasses were done with beautiful skill. Then you have the views of the little hamlets, the hundreds of churches I counted, the wintery lonely fields, and the dormant mountains crowned with snow.

We had lunch in a lovely little hostel called Krasna. It was a small family hotel with five suites, but the food was a 5-star hotel dinner. Once again I was very surprised by the culinary magic of Slovenia. I had a smoked porcini mushroom dish that was so unique in presentation, and the taste was just divine.  

Vid Daolio, the salesperson of the property, was waiting for us. The history of the horses are fantastic! For more than a 400 years, Lipica has been the homeland of the Lipizzaner horses, where they enjoy absolute freedom. The horses came from Andalusia and love it here. What is not to like? The grounds are beautiful, the air is fresh and there are wonderful sunsets. The first magnificent Stallion came from Spain in 1580. The Farm once belonged to the Hapsburg Court stud farm. It is the oldest European stud farm and today it is a cultural, historical and natural heritage for Slovenia and Europe.

The Equestrian show was a wonderful experience - to see these stunning stallions moving around the oval ring, airing above the ground, doing figures of high classical schooling - that can be done only if the stallion and the rider are highly trained. The choreography of the show is the story of love, pride and beauty between the horse and the rider. The show is a moving experience with many pleasant moments. I can see now why Slovenia and Europe care so much for these amazing creatures.

Vid, with great knowledge of the history of the horses, the farm and the equestrian show, was a great help for me to understand and appreciate the farm heritage. We toured around and I was taken behind the scenes to see the new stables and the old one, and to interact with the horses. Vid introduced me to one of the head trainers, Mr. Ramon Molina, a Spaniard of course.  
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This is great place for horse lovers and a must-see destination.

After a fun afternoon we left toward the Brda wine region, the land of invigorating moments, known all over the world for its cherries. Petra told me that other fruits such as apricot, peaches, figs, persimmons and chestnuts grow in the area and taste equally as delicious as the cherries.  

I have realized since my arrival that Slovenia is a country of good local wines, so I was anxious to see and taste more of them. 

Brda is located in the most western part of Slovenia, a short drive from the Italian border, nested midway between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. Brda is the land of hills, and in the sunny hillsides of Brda is where these vines have grown for centuries. From this region came wines that have received many distinguished awards and medals around the world. 

These Slovenian wines paired really well with many dishes of the Slovenian gastronomy.  
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You come to Brda to taste its very Mediterranean food which is incredibly inventive and creative, like my Mosaic of Octopus below, a very modern and innovative dish I had at Gredic Restaurant, hotel and winery.  

We stayed overnight at the famous Gredic mansion a hotel with seven rooms, a premium restaurant and a winery. The suite on the 4th floor has the best view, and my corner room had big windows that opened up to show the hills and the vineyards as far as my eyes could see.  

A must-see while touring Brda is the town of Smartno, an architectural jewel who has preserved its heritage with an amazing panoramic hill like an eagle’s nest. A former medieval border walled the picturesque village with five preserved towers. The town is all-around a cultural monument. Other towns to see: Neblo, and Dobrovo.  

Brda area is indisputably one of the most picturesque landscapes of Europe.

Next stop Piran, leaving behind the vine-rich hills of Collio, the snow-capped Alps and the medieval picturesque hamlets.

In just a 2 hour drive, the Slovenia Riviera with its Venetian-style town awaited me.

I really think it is fascinating that Slovenia can be completely traveled by car in such a short amount of time - its roads connect the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian plain, all in manageable distance.  
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Driving down from the freeway, the Slovenia coastline started unfolding its charm. I could see the limpid blues water between the pines and cypress woodlands. Slovenia only has 28 miles of coast facing the Adriatic Sea, which gradually narrows between two bays, the Strunjan and Piran.

Our first stop was a royal visit, lunch at the Kempinski Palace Portoroz.

The hotel was built in 1908, with all the Austro-Hungarian splendor. It has always been a hotel, and today it is a cultural monument. Absolutely a legendary and classic hotel with a great spa and restaurants, its location is perfect -  just 13 miles from Trieste.  
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With 164 rooms, 17 suites, some with sea view and park view and a great spa, The Kempinski hosted Sophia Loren and other Hollywood stars when Piran was the center of Slovenia cinema. In fact, there is a restaurant named after her, with beautiful photographs of the actress.  

Lunch at the Fleur de Sel, with a spectacular view of Portoroz, was perfect.

The food served here is a fusion of Italian, Austrian and Balkan tastes, dressed with their legendary olive oil and the well-known local salt coming from the pans of the Salina Natural Park. Not too far from the restaurant, the Park yields approximately 40,000 tons of salt per year.

After lunch we parked the car at a public parking spot, not too far from the hotel, and walked to Piran to explore the ancient town.

Piran is the jewel - A really dreamy city and one of the most photogenic cities in the Mediterranean with so much beauty and magical allure. There is a unique blend of Roman, medieval, and a big Venetian influence. There are charming narrow streets and an old town hall with an open, elegant Piazza dedicated to the most famous man in Piran, the well-known composer Giuseppe Tartine. The composer and virtuoso violinist was born just a few steps from his statue of today.

The walk was so much fun, and it was very relaxing. The town is completely pedestrianized, so you can walk the crooked cobblestone streets at your own pace and admire the ornate baroque architecture of the magnificent buildings. You really feel like you are in a medieval city, with a lighthouse, the Franciscan church and monastery, and the medieval tower built upon the hill above the town.

Piran has great coastal galleries, a theater and a fish market. I spent my morning ambling the narrow streets, enjoying the peaceful and quiet town.
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Piran is well-known by the Italians, who come here to enjoy the fresh seafood. It has great cafes along the waterfront, a fish market, a theater named after the composer and a well-equipped marina. During the summer, there is  a ferry that operates to Venice and only takes two hours. 

After a magical day in Piran we went to see one of the most alluring hotels in Slovenia, Otocec Castle, a Relais & Chateaux. With a fairytale setting, situated on a man-made islet in the middle of the KRKA River, it is the only castle surrounded by water in Slovenia, bringing a wow factor. The castle is joined to the mainland by a wooden bridge. The first historical reference of Otocec Castle was in the mid-13th century, when it was occupied by the Knights of Otocec, and over the centuries, the castle was acquired by different owners. During the second war, the castle was burnt and in the 1950’s, it was renovated and given a tourist hotel function.

That morning I enjoyed a walk alongside the river bank and through the ancient trees. The castle sits in an English park landscape style, with beautiful trees, and it is surrounded by the rushing and refreshing water of KRKA river, absolutely a fantastic setting - very organic and peaceful. 

The hotel has 10 double rooms, 2 junior suites, and 2 superior suites.  

My room was a corner turret junior suite, overlooking the water and the courtyard through sets of double windows, very charming windows, because this is a castle, and they were small. I opened up my windows to listen the KRKA River. 

The main bedroom was large, with beautiful wooden furniture, the décor was stoic and elegant, with a touch of medieval style and equipped with modern amenities.
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The bathroom was huge, with heated floors, twin sinks and a large spa bath.  

The attention is very much as one would expect from a Relais & Chateaux hotel; Service is excellent - the staff is super friendly, and attentive. I had one of the best meals here, accompanied with splendid Slovenian wine.  And breakfast was one of the best I ever had.

The location is perfect, just an hour from Zagreb and an hour and half from Ljubljana, so next time you are in either of these two cities, come see this amazing property and allow yourself to be treated like royalty by the staff.

​The hotel is great for families. 

So, at the end of my journey, I discovered how the story Urska told me made sense. I love the story, because at end of my trip, I realized Slovenia has the best of everything, and it is indeed a perfect little Eden to relax, unwind, rest, refresh and to enjoy the rich culinary culture.  

Slovenia is green, healthy, and a confluence of all good - A gastronomic super power of 24 regions with many distinctive dishes. All the ingredients are locally grown, they have the best olive oil and pumpkin seed oil, which is used frequently, locally produced meat, fruit, vegetables and a lot of talent in the Slovenian kitchens.

And don’t forget their intoxicating premium wines that pair so well with the Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine.
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With Portugal, Slovenia is in the category of affordable luxury within the European countries, and it all comes with great service.

Thank you Luxury Slovenia for crafting this magical trip for me.  

Where to eat:

In Ljubljana I suggest to go and experience the unique culinary vision of Chef Janez Bratovz, owner of JB Restaurant. It is one of the best 100 restaurants in the world.

Shopping:

Galeria Rustika, who has the largest range of handcrafts in Slovenia.  

In the Village of Lokev, please visit hotel Krasna - visit their big outdoor terrace and have a lovely lunch there.

In Ljubljana, there is a very nice hotel called Vander, a hidden nest in the heart of the old town, with 16 rooms.  It’s very contemporary, with a great rooftop terrace overlooking the castle and an infinity swimming pool.  

​While Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto are always popular destinations in Japan, there’s one breathtaking, yet little-known area that makes our insider John Rios light up with excitement. Coastal Ise-Shima is home to the holiest of shrines, beautiful islands, bountiful seafood, and the famous Mikimoto pearls.

What’s so special about Ise Shima?

Located in central Japan’s Mie Prefecture, it’s off the beaten path for international visitors. To me, Japan’s rich history and tradition are very much alive here. Time felt like it had come to a halt. Nature is untouched with scenic coastlines, natural spas and mountains that droop to the sea. The Japanese  hospitality known as omotenashi is also very special. 

How do you get there?

The bullet train from Tokyo takes about 3.5 hours. Then an hour in the car. The train is excellent with very comfortable premium seats.

Is it popular with Japanese tourists?

The Ise Shrine is the holiest temple in Japan. It is found here in a sacred forest and is considered the spiritual home for the Japanese. Millions of pilgrims visit each year, including the Imperial family. Even the prime minister pays his respects on New Year’s Day every year.

Who are the famous Ama free divers from this region?

In Ise-Shima, the bounty of the sea is traditionally caught by Ama divers, who are women-only. This practice goes back 3000 years. These women, whose average age is 65 today, still free dive to catch abalone, oysters and shellfish with their hands. But the tradition is slowly dying. It is well worth visiting them in their huts to hear their stories and enjoy the freshest seafood lunch. 

Where should we stay?

To immerse yourself in nature, stay in Amanemu, located in Ise-Shima National Park. The suites and villas all include private hot spring baths and ample terraces with views of Ago Bay. The setting is as serene as the rooms. I love the large bathrooms too. The restaurant serves excellent Japanese and western cuisine.

What activities are on your must-do list?

• Lunching in an Ama diver’s hut
• Visiting Ago Bay and Mikimoto Island, home of the pearl
• Touring a bonito flakes factory (katsoubushi)
• Visiting the sacred Ise Shrine

Japanese cuisine is so amazing. What should we try?

I mentioned that seafood lovers must try the famous spiny lobster, large oysters and abalone. Ise-Shima is also home to the best and most expensive beef in Japan known as matsusaka. Definitely worth the splurge. You’ll also find great local food and sweets along Okage Yokocho Street.

Tips for first-time visitors?

There is an indescribable purity in this area, so be very respectful of nature, and observe the traditions of the shrines. You should spend two days visiting the shrines and two days to enjoy the coastal areas like Toba and Shima.

Best time to go?

It’s great in all seasons. Spring has cherry blossoms. Summer is very green. Watch the leaves change color in autumn and early winter.

For more on Ise-Shima, contact John at John@firstinservice.com or our leisure specialists at imagine@firstinservice.com.

​Once again Portugal, like in the middle ages, has stepped to the forefront, and this time it is tourism that is giving this country a new rebirth. Portugal is on the tip of everyone’s tongue - in travel magazines, and travelers’ itineraries they all talking about this amazing destination. And trust me, there are plenty of reasons to talk about Portugal; the rich history, its culture, amazing wines, the typical cuisine, the fado and festivals, the Porto, the beautiful country sites, and it all comes with a great value for travelers. 

Portugal was always part of my history books - The Carthaginians in the 3rd century B.C., the arrival of the Phoenicians in twelfth century B.C., then the Celtics, the Romans under Augustus, the Visigoths, the Arabs, and later the King owners of the richest courts in Europe. At the beginning of the 1400’s, people from all over earth were arriving at Lisbon due to the new expeditions sent by the crown to Africa, bringing back shiploads of precious spices like pepper, ginger, saffron and other foreign spices.

Fast forward to today. Portugal is going through a new reincarnation. Today people do not go to Portugal to find the latest spices from Asia or Africa or the precious stones from Brazil; they are arriving to find an experience that will change their lives. Today Portugal looks like someone who has been drinking from the fountain of youth - she looks vibrant and very beautiful.
 
My trip started in Lisbon, once the admired “capital of Europe”.

There is an old saying in Portuguese “Quem nao tem visto Lisboa, nao visto cousa boa” (who has not seen Lisbon has not seen beauty).

So I came to see beauty. I arrived in Lisbon, the heart of Portugal, via Madrid.

​My first glance from the plane window was a tranquil countryside. and as the plane descended, more of the city was revealed, such as the Tagus River, the bridges, square buildings, and finally I saw a progressive urban city.

The driver was waiting for me outside the terminal, and as usual, when I arrive to a new place, I tried to ask the driver lots of questions. I usually start with a formal conversation, then I quiz the driver about the city, trying to see how much he knows, and I usually get a lot of good information. Luckily for me, the driver, provided by Made for Spain and Portugal, was also a certificated guide. So while he drove me, he introduced me to the names of the prominent streets we drove through with their perfect geometrical layouts like Avenida Da Liberdade. I asked him about the significance of the massive monuments that adorn the avenues. He knew every name and it’s importance.

In Lisbon I stayed at Hotel Bairro Alto. The trip from the airport to the hotel takes 20 minutes.
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The hotel is located in the 16th century quarter that has traditionally been the city's bohemian haunt of artists, writers, and the cultural Chiado. The neighborhood is called Bairro Alto.

The Hotel Bairro Alto is a Leading Hotel of the World - A cheery yellow square building built in the 1800s, it is located in the middle of the bustling and frenzied square of Praça Luís de Camões, and orated with Baroque churches, historic cafés, and the Portuguese cobblestone pavement.

The hotel’s front door staff quickly unloaded my bags and moved them to my room while I was checking in.

The hotel has 55 rooms, including the four suites.
 
My Deluxe room was small but well-equipped, with French doors onto small balconies overlooking the square. It was fairly spacious due to it’s smart and efficient design.

The four suites, decorated in blue or red, have a living-room, apart from the bedroom, full of Faux-fur and velvet textures, sofas and armchairs. Both areas have plasma displays.

Each room is decorated with a hand-painted bird, crafted by a local artist. The paintings are located at a different place in each room, depending were the first light of the day hits the room, so they can be viewed, adding a wonderful touch of surprise, décor, and beauty.

For a great view of the city go to the sixth floor, where there is a rooftop terrace, allowing you to look at what seems like all of Lisbon without ever leaving a comfy couch.

The Terrace, open daily from 10:30 am to 1:00 am, offers a relaxed ambience and is the ideal place for a leisurely moment to enjoy hot tea, wine, and comfort food which is served all day.

​Bairro Alto Hotel will be closed soon for renovations. They have purchased the building behind, and great things are about to happen. The hotel will be closed from November 2017 to July 2018, adding more space for a total of 87 rooms.
 
The Bairro Alto Hotel is a gem, and the service is excellent with a great and dedicated, friendly, and professional staff delivering a truly personalized service.

Day 2: One day visit to Sintra

​Located less than an hour from Lisbon, in the foothills of Southern Portugal, the stunning UNESCO World-Heritage Site, Sintra, is widely known for its mystic beauty.

The early Celts named Sintra the “Mountain of the Moon”. 

This city’s beauty has long been famous for the castle walls and palaces rising out of its many foggy hills. Some of the most exquisite manors and palaces in all of the country reside there, like the Palacio Da Pena - an impressive reminder of the centuries which Portugal was under Moorish domination, or Quinta Da Regaleira.

Following winding tree-lined paths in this 10-acre estate, you will come upon an ornate Gothic palace, a Roman Catholic chapel, lakes, fountains, cisterns, towers, and intriguing tunnel entrances.

Quinta da Regaleira is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site within the Cultural Landscape of Sintra and its scenic gardens. 

The palace, built in neo-manueline style, was the summer residence of the Carvalho Monteiro family. Now, it is considered the masterpiece of neo-Manueline Art from the period of  Romanticism in Sintra. It contains 5 floors of regal rooms, including family bedrooms, suites, and servants’ quarters, along with former billiard and hunting rooms. There is a subterranean passage linking the palace to the small chapel nearby, and although the chapel appears quite small on the outside, there are several floors to this beautifully decorated building.

I suggest that you visit Sintra in the winter months because hordes of tourists descend upon it throughout the rest of the year and clog the narrow lanes.

The Town of Sintra is wonderful for shopping. You can get lost in their winding cobblestone streets that go up and down, all lined up with little stores with all kind of beautiful treasures. 

​On my way back to Lisbon, I stopped at Estoril to visit the very beautiful Intercontinental Hotel by the beach.

Estoril is the playground of Portugal, situated on the coastal lowland. The area is warmed by the winds from Africa and cooled by the Atlantic. This ideal temperate climate makes it a favorite summer resort.

The Intercontinental Estoril is a perfect box, enclosed in a glass cage, with great lines and futuristic design. There are just two floors of hotel with condos on the floors above. 

The hotel is just steps away from the train station, and you can catch a train into Lisbon easily.  All rooms have impressive oceanfront views. There is a great sport club and spa. 

I had lunch at the Atlántico restaurant, a chic, intimate restaurant overlooking the  ocean. The Atlántico is just around the corner of the hotel so it is not inside the building - it looks like it is attached, but it is not. Alejandro, the manager, explained to me that the hotel purchased the restaurant. I had the best tuna, and raised my wine glass as I was fixated on the pale blues of the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 3: Evora, Central Alentejo

​2 hour drive east of Lisbon.

The name Alentejo derives from the phrase “Alem Tejo” (beyond  the Tejo river). It is the South central region of Portugal.

​Portugal has great modern and well-kept highways to travel by car. One of the requirements of the EU for Portugal, in order to join them, was to update their roads. According to the driver, before 1986, Portugal had the worst roads in Europe. Today the roads and highways are as efficient as Italian or French roads.

The capital of central Alentejo is Evora, and its history spans from the Neolithic era to Roman times to the Golden Portugal of the 15th an 16th centuries. It’s a must-see city, declared UNESCO World Heritage City in 1986.

The city, since it had very little damage after the earthquake of 1775 that destroyed much of Portugal, is the best example of the old Portugal, and today has become a “museum city”.

The city square, Praca de Giraldo, is rectangular, and the houses that surround it are white with arcades covered with roof tiles and forged steel balconies - palaces and convents ornate with the best of Portuguese craftsmanship.

Recommended:

• The cathedral of Evora
• Capela dos ossos
• Roman temple
• Praca de Giraldo
• Evora Museum
• Agua da Prata aqueduct.
• Megalithic  monuments

Where to stay:

​Convento Do Espinheiro Hotel and Spa.
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The first five star hotel of the Alentejo. Located on the outskirts of Evora, it is part of the Luxury collection hotels by Starwood. It has 92 rooms and luxury suites. The property also has a spa, which includes a pool, jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath, gym, and treatment facilities.

The 15th century convent is dedicated to the adoration of Saint Mary of the Hawthorne, who according to tradition, had appeared here.

Used by nobles and Kings, very important events occurred there which shaped the history of this place and most importantly the History of Portugal.

Located just outside the Evora city walls, this medieval building that stretches 19 acres, is pure heaven. The building itself is simply stunning, with interiors that are delicate and luxurious. There is a delightful little chapel, a cloister (from around 1520), the cistern, and the wine cellar (built in 1520). It has been refurbished to hold the gastronomic restaurant “Divinus”, which serves many delicious Alantejo specialities.

​The hotel has two sections - an old and a new.  There is also a remarkable infinity pool bordered by sumptuous gardens.

This is an extraordinary place with peace, serenity and class.

Must do:

​The daily guided tour to historical areas starts at 5:00pm, followed by an elegant wine tasting at the wine cellar with a Sommelier, at 6:00 PM.  

Day 4: Coimbra

​Coimbra is about 110 miles Northeast of Lisbon. It was the capital of Portugal until 1360.

The most notable building is the University. Founded in 1290, it is the oldest in Portugal. Visiting the very spectacular university and it’s amazing library was extraordinary!

The University was declared a World Heritage site in 2013

Douro Valley 

Quinta de Vale Abraão, a 19 century old mansion is today, the Six Senses Hotel. It is located on a hill looking over the views of the beautiful green terraced vineyards of the UNESCO World Heritage Douro valley and the Douro River.

The rooms are located in a new wing, overlooking the valley, and designed to be in harmony with nature.

I stayed in a “Quinta Deluxe”. The room was spacious with modern bathrooms and soft fabrics with pale grays and greens. There was an abundance of natural light coming through glass windows. The room is designed to bring tranquility and a zen-like feeling.

There is also a patio with steps that take you down to the beautiful and well cared for gardens and an ancient forest. There are 19 acres in total, and 21 units like the one I stayed in. There are also 12 “Quinta Rivers” each with a private balcony and terrace.

​This hotel comes with beautiful offers for the traveler.

It has a therapeutic spa with an indoor pool and an outdoor infinity pool with a mirrored effect, projecting the beautiful landscape like a giant movie screen.

​It has dining rooms and terraces, indoor and outdoor lounges, and wine tasting areas - all beautifully done and welcoming.

​I enjoyed my yoga sessions, stretching and looking at the woodland through the tall glass.

There is great local food and it is super fresh!

​There is so much to explore and do in the area. For instance, you can arrange for a cruise at the hotel, so you can flow in the tranquil waters of the ancient Douro River, admiring the world’s oldest and beautiful vineyards and the mountainous landscape of the region.

​Day 5-6: Porto

Porto is listed as a Unesco World Heritage, and in 2014 it won the best European destination award.

Porto is situated on the steep, rocky bank of the Douro River.

It is an old port from the Roman Empire called “Porto Cale”, hence the name of Portugal, and later called “Oporto” (the Port) by the British.

There are so many surprises in this town with much to be discovered and learned about its rich history. Porto was once a very rich town, with many families that left treasures everywhere in the form of Palacios and quarters. The gothic granite cathedrals are decorated with gold from Brazil, and there are many palaces with impressive wood carvings. Don’t miss the Exchange, a beautiful municipal building that was once a monastery.

The Center of Oporto is a square that possesses the principal public buildings.

The city offers everything to the most sophisticated traveler. 

​In Porto I stayed at the Yeatman, located in the heart of Vila Nova de Gaia, the historical headquarters of the Port Wine houses.

In fact the name of the hotel comes from one of the families that owns a successful port house.

The 83 magnificent guest rooms and suites are among The Yeatman's most impressive features. Each room opens onto a large private balcony, enjoying a dramatic and unobstructed view across the River Douro. From my balcony I could see the city’s houses rise in terraces from the river bank. The location gives you perfect views of the, city topped by Torres dos Clerigos, rising 247 feet high.
 
The hotel is in walking distance to the river and the old town, where there are fantastic areas to walk along the river.

The rooms are nicely appointed with a wine/port theme. In the main area there is a bar and restaurant with access to a wonderful patio. It is a 2-Star Michelin restaurant with amazing classic European wines and, of course, Porto.

The hotel is attached to Taylor Fladgate Porto house. A grand excursion to see this amazing cave is a must. You will learn the history and taste a variety of Port - the most civilized and sociable of wines.

Portugal is a place where you can easily get lost in time. The land of Portugal will bring you closer to your senses, like a magnetic pole, and make it all real for you again.

&Beyond Benguerra Island,
Barefoot luxury paradise. 

​I flew Airlink from Johannesburg to Vilankulos, a non-stop flight of about 1 hour 45 minutes.  There are direct flights to Vilankulos from Johannesburg (five times per week) and Nelspruit, near Kruger National Park (twice per week; 1 hour 15 minutes).

You can tell the Vilankulo Airport has been upgraded, as it is large and modern.

Americans will need to have a visa to enter Mozambique but it could be obtained upon arrival. It took me less than 10 minutes to get my visa and the cost is USD$75.00.

Once the officer stamped the visa in my passport, the &Beyond representative and Marc, the pilot of the helicopter, greeted me with all smiles and informed me that I will make the last 10-minute stretch of my journey by helicopter and that it was waiting for me at the tarmac. Marc is a South African pilot who served in several missions in Afghanistan and Iran, so I felt very safe.

​Outside, the heat and the humidity of the summer afternoon embraced me right away, and I felt like I was wrapped in a damp, hot dishcloth. Once in the air, Marc pointed out to me the historic Mozambique Channel that separates Vilankulos from the Archipelago.

I’ve never seen water so pristine in all my travels. The colors were incredible, with the tones ranging from deep velvety blue to crisp cornflower blue, deep sapphire to saturated shades of Tiffany turquoise - a translucent panorama of water with light greens.

I could see the white sands of the archipelago shimmering in the distance, and a sense of calm came over me.

​I knew I had found paradise.

We landed, and once I stepped out of the helicopter, I could hear drums playing in the distance and people singing. I was greeted by the staff and escorted to the resort.

The closer I got to the lobby, the music and the singing sounded louder and the rhythms were exotic and very pleasant.

​A group of staff put on a welcoming show for me with singing and dancing. The sounds of the drums were almost hypnotic, with the singing very gentle, and the welcome was genuine.

For the first-time visitor, a wealth of excitement and absorbing discovers await. 
 
​Benguerra is both breathtakingly beautiful and completely unspoiled. It is the second largest island in the Bazaruto archipelago, which broke away from the mainland thousands of years ago.

The island is approximately 55 square kilometers (11km long x 5.5 km wide), and lies 14km offshore.  

Accommodations are divided between 10 Casinhas and 2 Cabanas, large thatched stone chalets, and one villa - ideal for families and honeymooners wishing for privacy.

The lodge’s thirteen bay-front guest bungalows are spread out from the main lodge, and the rooms all merge naturally into the surrounding forests which consists of a lush canopy of leafy coconut palms, cassia trees, banyan trees, potato bush, and tangled beach shrubbery.

The décor inside my Casinha had a rich East African/Arabic feel, with deep-blue fabrics and a tasteful mix of antiques, with the four-poster bed with white mosquito drapes billowing in the breeze.

The room also had a luxurious day bed and a massive bathtub facing a large window.

Everything opens up to the view of Benguerra Bay, which is one of the world’s best beaches, looking at the glittering and translucent jade and opal waters of the ocean.

The glamorous outside bathroom is ample and decorated with hand-painted Portuguese tiles. Taking a refreshing shower there was a pleasure, listening to a symphony of birds.

​The Casinhas are large, air-conditioned, very comfortable, and thankfully, there are no TVs.

These are fantastic villas with private plunge pools, ideal for private sunbathing. There is also an expansive deck with a gazebo with day beds and a suspended sun lounger for two in front of the ocean, so you can indulge in  the tranquil atmosphere of these paradise-like surroundings.

Each Casinha comes with your personalized butler to enhance your experience.

My butler, Castigo, was just perfect - always around when I needed him. He quickly introduced me to the villa and prepared my table for lunch in the gazebo overlooking the ocean.  

Castigo immediately showed understanding of how I wanted to pace my stay.  I told him I would like a late breakfast around the pool and lunch in the gazebo.

The food is mainly freshly caught seafood, mixed with a fusion of Creole, influenced by Arabic, and Indian cuisine. 

​During my stay, Castigo was focused on making sure I was comfortable.

​The warm tropical sun filtering through the coconut leaves instantly put me at ease.

​&Beyond Benguerra Island is barefoot luxury at its very best! 

You can easily spend moments or hours of leisurely solitude with your eyes fixed on the incredible beautiful scenery - looking at the magical waters of the Indian Ocean, with its small waves and shimmering white sand, without worries in your mind, or if you wish, &Beyond offers a great range of activities.

​During your stay you will have the opportunity to snorkel and see the most fascinating variety of tropical and game fish, and rich coral reefs providing an unforgettable color fest.

I was able to view breathtaking assortments of colorful fish.

​Also, scuba diving, traditional dhow cruises, castaway picnics, catamaran cruises, kayaking, fishing, horse riding, an island expedition with culture interaction, and go for relaxing barefoot walks exploring the beaches and savanna-grassland. 

​With endless photo opportunities, the resort is perfect for amateur or professionals photographers alike. 

​This must be one of the best and most indulgent resorts in the world.

The whole experience is fantastic!

I understand why the resort is full of honeymooning couples, and this is the perfect place for a romantic holiday.

The key is your butler, who focuses on making sure the pace and relaxation of your stay is tuned to exactly how you feel and what you want to do.

Each evening you can organize activities for the next day depending on your mood and wants.

And Island sunset.

The lodge truly offers an extraordinary guest experience, with its great local hospitality, situated in the most spectacular place surrounded by sublime nature, and above all, lots of smiling faces.

I arrived in Queenstown from Sydney on a flight with Qantas who provided a great service.

Queenstown, on the South Island, is a small town nestled beautifully in the Southern Alps.

Queenstown airport is easy both in an out.  I picked up the car and since it was early I decide to explore the area before heading to Blanket Bay in the town of Glenorchy; a 1 hour drive north of the airport.  I went south.

It took me a little while to teach my brain to how to drive on the left side of the road, especially the multiple roundabouts and their exits.

I drove along the side of Lake Wakaipu, an inland lake shaped like a dog leg and New Zealand’s longest lake. Highway 6, the road I took, placed along the Southeastern edge where the mountain range lies with many peaks covered with snow.  I was able to witness majestic views of the lake, the crystal blue water reflecting the spectacular alpine peaks like a mirage.

After an hour or so I decided to come back to Queenstown, and take the northern route, driving towards Glenorchy, Otago.
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The Blanket Bay Lodge is located directly overlooking Lake Wakaipu. The driveway of the lodge is carpeted by a deep green grass where dozens of sheep are grazing without a care in their lives, in the horizon the blue of the lake and the peaks of the Humboldt Mountains covered with perpetual snow make for a majestic welcome to the lodge.

At the door of the main lodge the porters and the Manager, Mr. Butler, was waiting for me. Soon he whisked me inside the lodge.

The construction of the lodge is a grand style of the finest alpine lodges with elegant luxury.  The design of the lodge with vaulted ceilings and walls of glass opening out to the lake and mountain views, make you see the grandeur of the landscape, a thrill welcoming.  Mr. Butler explained to me how the beams were recycled beams from old bridges in the area and was incorporated in the design and you can find them in doors frames, chimney mantels, and supporting the roof. Beautiful local stone stacked one on top of the other, form the walls of the lodge, along with schist fire places and super comfortable soft furniture.  The lodge blends seamlessly with Blanket Bay’s landscape.
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The intimate den where the pre-dinner drinks and canapé are served is cozy and with great décor.  There are several small scale yachts and sail boats displayed on the top shelves of the perfect polished wooden bookcases.  I enjoyed coming to the pre-dinner drinks, as you’re able to meet interesting people and the waiters and bartender were amicably attentive and full of stories about the lodge.  Drinks were perfect and the canapés well served in preparation for the upcoming dinner.

The main dining room is very romantic, the walls are decorated with magnificent paintings of nature, gardens and landscapes, with some from renaissance period and others done by local artists.

Dinner is chosen from an a La carte menu which changes nightly, prepared by incredibly skilled and imaginative chefs and great wine selections of Marlborough vineyards and the Otago vineyards.

The staff is wonderful from the moment you check in I was made to feel extremely important, as was every guest staying at the property.  Every staff member came and introduced themselves to me, and all immediately knew my name for the remainder of my stay.
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The lodge has 7 magnificent villas and, soon, a new four-bedroom villa will offer commanding views to both the north and the south. 

​The lodges are comfortable, with grand central living space and a large bathroom.  Some have showers that come with steam. 

​The décor in the my villa is relaxed but elegant with great upholstered chairs in front of a grand window to sit down and submerge yourself in the magnificent view in front of you. The villas provide an unparalleled level of comfort, convenience and seclusion. 

​The open fire place is perfect especially for the cold nights, there is a nice patio in the back with two chairs and a table, perfect to go outside and drink your coffee in the morning waiting for the twilight to change to day and realize how fortunate you are, to be part of this experience.

​The lodge itself also has 5 rooms with fantastic views of the lake.

There are plenty of activities to do in Blanket Bay.  It’s a great place for hiking throughout the well-marked trails.  Less than 5 minutes from the lodge there is a hike to Mount Judah on the Whakaari Conservation Area of 17,000 hectares.  It contains relatively easy hiking that gives you views of the dramatic environment and its interaction with the pastoral past of the area. 

​From the top of one of the main hikes, you can deviate yourself and take different paths, all with beautiful sights of the lake and the Humboldt alpine mountains.  There are also abandoned state mines that can be explored.

Another great activity is to do the jet boat ride, up the remote Dart River.  It’s an exuberant and spectacular journey deep into the heart of the world-renowned Mt. Aspiring National Park - one of the most stunning locations for jet boating in New Zealand.  Its fun and I saw more of the area and landscape close up. www.dartriverjetsafari.co.nz
 
You can also organize a guided visit to all the film sites used on the Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit and other movies.

Fly by helicopter and see the majestic Milford Sound, one of New Zealand’s most spectacular destinations, the eighth wonder of the world.

Guided fly fishing, horse riding, paragliding and mountain biking are other great activities at the lodge.

If you are looking for that unforgettable experience, then you can't pass up Blanket Bay Lodge.  It is a place to relax and absorb the goodness of the Alpine environment, and its cool and cozy climate. You will enjoy the exquisite accommodations and sitting at the table with new friends to enjoy a perfect meal paired with the best wines of the region. 

Blanket Bay is part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

​Next stop Annandale in the Banks Peninsula.
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I flew from Queenstown to Christchurch, a 45 minute flight.  The Peninsula is on the east coast of the south island.  I drove away from the Garden City, as Christchurch is known, towards Akaroa Just 75 kilometers from the city of Christchurch.

Akaroa is historic French and British settlement nestled in the heart of an ancient volcano, tucked alongside a deep and sheltered harbor.

On the far side of the Peninsula the 4,000 acres of Annandale awaits for me.

Annandale has four distinctive properties; the first one is the tranquil beautiful homestead full of Victorian refinement, established in 1843. With 5 bathrooms, surrounded by a magnificent garden and overlooking Pigeon Bay.  It is complete with an infinity pool, gym, tennis court, a large vegetable garden and orchard and a fern sanctuary.

The working farm has 7,000 sheep and 700 cattle, so wherever you are you will see them grazing peacefully in their majestic grounds.

The other three properties are outside and only accessible by 4WD or helicopter.

First, is the quaint, historic, yet luxurious Shepherd’s Cottage.  It is set high on the hill with an uninterrupted view of the Pacific Ocean. About 30 minutes drive from the homestead.  
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The other two properties are Scrubby Bay and Seascape, both designed by award-winning Auckland architect Andrew Patterson.

​Scrubby Bay is a luxury cedar clad beach house about a 45-minute drive from Homestead, but the drive offers some of the most spectacular views imaginable so it's no hardship.

Scrubby Bay has three master bedrooms and a bunk room for the kids, as well as a pool, hot tub, massive living room and fully outfitted kitchen. The wood-paneled doors all slide open so that interiors and exteriors blend into one continuous space letting the breeze move freely inside the low-lying, cabin.

Seascape is truly the show stopper on the property.  With its mix of slate, concrete, pine and an abundance of glass, an ultra modern one bedroom, steel and glass retreat. It looks like something James Bond and Sir Norman Foster co-designed. Although the property is certainly comfortable and offers every luxury, it is what it is on the outside that really matters. The property is situated in a picturesque private bay with the dreamiest landscapes. Once the car of the Manager disappeared up the steep rocky driveway, I was keenly aware just how remote from any civilization I was, and I felt at peace with that. I said to myself “if the world would end today I would not know and I would not even care.”

​The state-of-the-art kitchen was stocked with snacks, while the stainless steel fridge held my vacuumed sealed gourmet meals pre-delivered, and a nice selection of wine.  Simple cooking directions, this is how Annandale has, for now, solved the logistical challenge of distance and in-villa dining.

​But if you preferred, Annandale will be happy to arrange a private chef. 

​This villa for sure will always be remembered as the most spectacular place I’ve ever stayed, without any doubt.  The afternoon light enters the house from every corner through the tall glass walls coloring the concrete with bright psychedelic colors. 

​This is a place to bring your other half because this place will magically display the most romantic views you can imagine. The nights here are not to be forgotten.  Outside awaits a warm Jacuzzi with the long fireplace and the sky above displaying millions of stars, all coming to welcome you on this special night. In the morning, the light is so pristine that you truly believe you have died and have reached heaven.  

Should you decide to leave the grounds, there are many spectacular tracks on Annandale, including the 14km Pigeon Bay Walkway from where, on the top of the mountains, I witnessed uninterrupted views of the cliffs and the ocean.

​Otahuna (‘little hill among the hills’ in Maori),
 
I headed back towards Christchurch and about an hour drive from the city, I arrived at the most splendid house. Otahuna Lodge was built in 1895 and designed with the best Queen Anne architecture. Once the gate opens you drive through sweeping striped lawns, colossal, strong beech and mature pine trees, daffodil fields and perfectly manicured gardens. Flowers of all colors are planted throughout the estate. I felt like I just entering a painting done by Thomas Kinkade. It is  Absolutely spectacular. 

​Once inside the house I was welcomed by Donna, she showed me the house and share great historical stories about the house, she told me for instance the house was a wedding present by Sir Heaton Rhodes to his lovely wife Jessie, that she died young and that Sir Heaton lived in Otahuna for more than 60 years. The house after that was purchased twice, once as a guesthouse for a catholic monastery and then became a commune. 

​Otahuna itself is now recognized as an architectural icon of New Zealand and the house is not shy of showing its romantic beauty.  Once inside the house it feels warm and welcoming. The house has brilliant details such as the arched verandas, turrets, wooden paneling, stained glass windows, ornate wood and the sculpture burning inglenooks.  The house does not look or feel a century plus old. The brick, stone, weatherboards, shingles, stucco all looking new.

​A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux properties, the home offers seven individual suites. The two master and five suites all decorated with different styles.  My room, the Polo, had a super king bed dressed in fine linens. The bathroom is very big with deep bathtubs and separate rain shower and with a window facing the garden.

The service was so very special, and the food was great. Jimmy the Chef, the most senior house member holding many positions over the years, and his team did an amazing dinner menu.  They cooked with produce from their own garden and in my menu that night from the garden we had:  celeriac, fennel and asparagus.

Jimmy also prepared a Salmon confit, fresh mozzarella with Otahuna Salami, Tai Tapu Duck and, Kumara ginger puree all very different but created equally well. Star quality.  The wines perfect: Sauvignon Semillon from Waipara Valley, a rose from Martinborough, and Pinot Noir from Canterbury.  It was a wonderful evening.

In the morning, the garden awaits to be discovered.
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The gardens are very well kept with an architectural Dutch Garden, a lake, intimate walks, and great vistas. 

Breakfast was so well prepared in the communal kitchen, fresh baked bread baked by the joyful and lively Nikki, cereals, yogurts, fresh fruit and breakfast a la carte.

I felt a sense of peace and comfort at Otahuna; which today, thanks to the hands of the new owners, the house remains a testament to Sir Heaton Rhodes’ passion for the finer things of life.
 
My next property was in Nelson, a short flight from Christchurch of about 50 minutes

​Split Apple Retreat is approximately a 1 hour drive.

Split Apple Retreat is situated facing the Abel Tasman National Park on a ridge overlooking uninterrupted panoramas of the Tasman Bay. This unique place is super exclusive and not visible from the road.  It is on a cliff near the end of a narrow road. I was surprised not seeing any signs for the house that is in a residential neighborhood.
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The name of the retreat comes from a rather unusual rock formation in the bay that looks just like that - a perfect split apple.

The house was truly a surprise for me.  The entry is decorated by an old covered Japanese gate, recovered from an ancient Japanese temple with two beautiful antique lanterns hanging at each side of the gate. The gate, architecturally perfect, blended into the landscape.
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At the other site of the gate was the beautiful oriental garden  and the welcoming smile of my hostess waiting for me, her name was Anne Pen and she is Dr. Lee Nelson’s wife; both owners of the well-being center. 

​The entrance is lower than the rest of the home.  The removal of one’s shoes was not symbolic but it had physical and psychological purpose and allowed me to be aware that I was entering someone’s private space.  

The tour of the home was conducted by Pen who told me that the house was built around Dr. Nelson’s large collection of Japanese art which are display throughout the entire house with other Asian pieces.  Pen introduced me to many of them due to my curiosity and I was delighted to know that some of them are as old as the 3rd century AD.

​I was introduced to the rest of the house.  The attention to detail is everywhere:  the style, the structure and the decoration of the home perfectly balanced.

​After the antiques, she took me to see the an amazing infinity swimming pool with jaw-dropping views of the deep turquoise–green waters of the Tasman sea and the seclude golden beaches. For a moment I felt as I was part of a scene in a hologram of the future where only places like this could ever exist.

​It has an outdoor spa pool, a gym, an infrared sauna, steam room, spat room, outdoor showers and ozonated hot tub. With three superb and exceptionally spacious guest rooms. 

​My room the Lotus room equipped with a wonderfully comfortable bed and a delightful private terrace from which to enjoy idyllic views. The bathroom has two-person granite Japanese tub and the room had beautiful Japanese furnishings. The earthy interior mimics the colors of the outside calm landscape.

Dr. Nelson and his wife Pen, the two incredible hosts at Split Apple Retreat made me feel welcomed right away. Relaxing and focusing on health are the priority in this house. Dr. Nelson is a guru, a modern Yoda if you will. We had conversations from Creative Kinase, fish oil, lipids to coconut yogurt and colostrums, well-being and overall discussions about a healthier approach to life.

His meditation technique is one that I will never forget. It was effective and super relaxing. The meditation was conducted in the home-made cinema.  Also I heard by another guest it has the best acupuncture and reiki.

Pen, is the heart of this home as she is the nurturing mother who prepares all your meals with a nutritionally tailored gourmet cuisine. Dr. Lee’s vision of food healing comes alive in the wonderful and skillful hands of the artist that is Pen; every dish is prepared from delicious local ingredients. She even made a chocolate mousse tart without sugar or flour and it was perfect.

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Pre-dinner came with gourmet, bite sized food, filled by explosions of flavor.  Pen’s talent and the qualified physician that is Dr. Lee made the perfect combination for a truly rejuvenating well-being experience. 

And yes there is a wine cellar with a wonderful collection of wines, beautiful bottles of Japanese sake and perfect roses waiting to be picked up. You don’t have to give up some of your ‘guilty pleasures’ red, white and rose wines are served with every meal and before dinner.
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The only drawback here is that I didn’t spend enough time. I would recommend 3 days here to enjoy the special creations coming from Pen’s kitchen.  Go to the Abel Tasman National Park, including a helicopter trip to see the green carpet of the land and view from above the clear water of The Waikoropupu Springs.  The spring keeps giving life at 14,000 liters of water per second, making a beautiful clear river along the way.  There is also kayaking, hiking and sailing.

I left completely restored and with a sense of calm and bliss. Dr.  Nelson and Anne Pen own, by far, one of the best boutique hotels in the world. I travel a lot and have had the privilege to stay in very some very exclusive places all over the world.  This place really was a stunning wellness spot.

​Next stop was Palliser Bay.  I drove back to Nelson and took a short flight to Wellington, and drove two hours to the Wharekauhau Country Estate with 5000 acres, a working sheep station and cattle. The Edwardian country style sits on 16 miles of stunning views to the pacific coastland, lakes, mountains and bush.

​It is an excellent contemporary resort with 14 villas.

​The manager, Richard Rooney, gave me a warm welcome and he did all possible to enhance my experience here from a private sheep shearing to a safari, a must do if you want to appreciated more  the spectaculars views of the coastline.  The safari took me to see the awesome vegetable and herb gardens, the forest with its wildlife and Manuka Trees.  We drove through hillocks, and made a short visit to feed the eels in the pond. The guide was great with the history of the place and because of her knowledge about the farm, I learned more about the cattle, the fauna and the local area.

​Richard suggested a great hike, a 45 minute walk that took me to see the most magnificent panorama and an isolated beach with black sand.  It was early morning and the sand was shimmering with thousands of tiny lights.  I stood still listening to roar of the thunderous Pacific in front of me.

The hike ended up above the coastline and once you reach the top the view from there is uninterrupted and just glorious.
 
My cottage was roomy with lots of fresh morning light, comfy under floor heating and a warm gas fire. Big tub and shower with a very comfortable bed. Delicious homemade cookies wait in the room.

The meals are prepared in an open kitchen and you can see the chef at work preparing the wonderful meals with fresh food locally sourced. 
The area is full of great vineyard less than 30 minutes from the lodge.
 
Wharekauhau country state is outstanding in the New Zealand Lodge experience.

​The Farm at Cape Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay,

The drive from Palliser Bay to Hawke’s Bay was the longest drive at around 4 hours, but I think I have accomplished something very wonderful by driving both islands.  I know helicopters are the quickest form of transportation in New Zealand for tourism.  It generally takes just a few minutes to reach the lodges and farms from the airports, whereas driving it could be a couple hours or more.  But driving is a completely other world and I was able to see the pastoral rural communities along the roads I took. To absorb the lush landscape, visit great wineries, and see how the locals live.

​I did not know what to expect of Cape Kidnappers.  I did read about the history behind the name, how a Polynesian boy escorting Captain Cook was kidnapped in the bay by the Maori people thinking he was one of theirs.

​Once you go up 20 minutes behind the gates and reach the top of the cliff you will find this spectacular pasture land  in a pristine background.

The main Lodge is a building with a beautiful farm ranch style.   Two tall Mexican doors with beautiful rusty iron and old patina are the gates of the main entry.  The lobby is spacious and decorated with luxury and a comfort in mind.  

The property has 22 cottages, and one with four bedrooms named the Owner’s Cottage.

My cottage was super spacious, with a large porch that opens to a breathtaking view. Great natural light everywhere, the decoration is all that you could expect in a luxury ranch; comfortable bed, spacious chairs upholstered with beautiful wools, and the television skillfully hidden behind a cowboy picture.

​All 22 cottages scaled in different points and with great views. The Spa has the best view of the house with corners views of the Ocean and the green landscape.

​Lots to do and explore: golf is big here with a Tom Doak designed links style golf course and #27 in the top best in the world. 

​I highly recommend experiencing the Cape Sanctuary, and experience one of the world’s weirdest and fragile birds in their own environment - the Kiwi. You will have the chance to hold it in your hands and put it close to your chest and listen to its heart.   The owners of the Lodge have invested a great deal to allow Kiwi to be safe in the area and they have built a $2.5 Million vermin proof fence running across the peninsula. By 2040, Cape Sanctuary should contain the largest population of Kiwi in New Zealand and by 2020, the Cape Sanctuary should contain an assemblage of oceanic coastal, and terrestrial fauna found nowhere else on mainland New Zealand, so there is hope with visionaries like Mr. Robertson, along with the Lowe and Hansen Families.

Hike to see the Gannet Colony.  It’s a 1 ½ hour hike one way or you can ask the lodge to drive you there.  The interesting Gannet colony is located high on a coastal nesting area at Cape Kidnappers.  When I went to see them it was mating season in early October so there were dozens of nests spread all around. I was told  by a  staff member that from the point I was their very  young take their 1st flight solo to Australia, and  return when they are 4 or 5 years old, (only 60% make it back) and nest here for life (approx 25 to 30 years). They can dive to 30 meters to catch fish.

 The Farm at Cape Kidnappers is a member of Relais & Chateaux, an elegant accommodation with fine dining and if wine is your passion this is a good place to enjoy.

Huka Lodge - Taupo.

The drive is 3 and ½ hours through the most scenic views like the views you only read in fairy tales books.  Vast green valleys, forests full of pines, tall rocky mountains and the sound of water always close.
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Huka Lodge is located in New Zealand’s central region a high volcanic plateau with thermal activities, it is a thermal wonderland with spouting geysers, plopping mud pools with sulfurous smells, and medicinal baths.  

It is also where Lake Taupo is located a lake, the size of Singapore, that was product of a volcanic eruption and almost center in the main part of the island.  The lake is so large that it has tides.
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The Lodge is immaculate. Founded in 1920 this beautiful property is one of the best lodges in the world.  Queen Elizabeth has visited 4 times and that says it all.

​Nestled on 17 acres of manicured lawns and beautiful gardens on the banks of the Waikato River; New Zealand’s longest river with its powerful waters flows downstream past the lodge. 

​All eighteen junior lodge suites, one suite and the two private cottages which are built on a bluff overlooking the river with magical green, and turquoise colors, outdoor terrace with infinity pool and outdoor chimney. 

All the junior suites have a panoramic view to the river, very spacious, with beautiful large glass bifold doors that open out to the outdoor patio and overlook the majestic river passing by.  The bathroom was stunning with a huge bathtub perfect for long soaks. The Suites were built to create harmony allowing the outside to dominate and interact with the softness of the interior furniture and decoration.  Every window looks out to the greenery and lush nature.

The main lodge is the hub of the property and it is beautifully furnished in the typical style of an old Scottish fishing lodge. Dinners are legendary here with more than twenty very different and amazing dining venues, some outdoors, with the most romantic designs.

One of my venues was the cellar all light up with candles, even the chandleries had candles. Five- course gourmet, complimented by excellent wine. 

The menu has John Dory, a fish that the Maori gave to Captain Cook on his first voyage to New Zealand, Pheasant, Leigh Snapper, Silver Fer Venison and for desert Tamarillo, a fruit that I am very familiar with, all cooked with the highest quality produce.

​The wine was at the same level of magnificence, all paired with each meal to create an unashamedly and wonderful experience.   

​I took a short 10-minute walk to see the mighty Huka falls. Once you arrive to the falls you can experience Huka falls as they cascade and thunder in a spectacular series of rapids.

​From there you can hike and see how beautiful nature is in this volcanic plateau, once you are inside the forest the thunder of the falls is followed by flowing water making pools of silver and pales blues.  Here the morning light is trapped shining in many little tinkles. The occasional ducks, fighting the currents moving their unstoppable legs, try to stay away from the underwater current as it pushes farther away from land.  Huge pines with their robust branches and trunks remind me of the Colossus of Rhodes, they look so strong and it seems there were here long before we were visitors of this land.

New Zealand! It has places that you thought only existed in your dreams and it is as pure as my childhood memories.  

​Some of the things I remember about Bogota from visiting in my younger years are its great colonial history, the combined neo-gothic and modern architecture, and the old colonial churches. I also remember Monserrate, La Casa del Florero, and the Quinta of Bolivar.

​Bogota hit a significant turning point in the late 90s, and kept growing, focusing on making the city safer and adding quality to the way of life. Bogota is now a city of amazing contrasts, the colonial era buildings are still a part of its landscape, standing next to the modern buildings. The old architecture of the Candelaria, and the colonial churches are decorated with monuments, gold, and indigenous art, along with modern museums and important galleries. 

At the Carrera Séptima, in one of these colonial buildings, is Casa Medina, one of the two Four Seasons boutique hotels in Bogota.

Long ago the Carrera Séptima, Bogotá’s main avenue, was the place to live for the well-to-do. It was a promenade of elegant homes, reflecting the good life of their owners. Although from a bygone era, Casa Medina still stands like a rock castle in a futuristic city.

The history of Casa Medina starts in 1946. It was originally built with 8 apartments, by Santiago Medina, hence the name. 

Mr. Medina designed the house by mixing ideas from Spanish and French architecture. He was a bird lover, and he contracted an artisan to craft images of birds all throughout the house. You can find them carved into doors, stamped on mosaics, and decorating the beautiful iron handrail on the stairs.

​He heard that the Convents of Santo Domingo and St. Augustine were going to be destroyed and decided to salvage their colonial architectural treasures. He brought stone columns, flooring, and hand-carved wooden doors to the building, planning an exclusive enclave of beautifully appointed apartments. Today you can see those columns supporting the archways, rooms, and patios and the beautiful rocks attached to the façade. 

​Mr. Medina created a very comfortable home with a particularly colonial style, but over time, the home deteriorated and was going to be demolished. However the government decided to name it a national monument and the home was saved.

​In 1988 the home was purchased by a real estate company, and the building was restored. The original characteristics of the house could not be altered because it was now a national monument and the façade and architectural style needed to be preserved.

​The property was transformed into a modern hotel, which quickly established itself among the city’s elite and international travelers. Today, Casa Medina, reborn as a Four Seasons, is a beautiful oasis in a cosmopolitan city. It has 62 rooms and suites, each one different from the next, yet with common amenities such as hand-carved dressers, leather armchairs, thermo-acoustic windows to keep the city noise and the wild traffic sounds of Bogota to a minimum, and customizable beds.
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The Casa Medina is wonderful in many ways, and the service is out of this world.  They have a terrific breakfast too!

​My lovely suite was spacious and well-appointed, complete with a fireplace and two large balconies.

Tourism to Colombia has grown nearly 300% since 2002, when 540 thousand foreigners visited the country.

According to the government, more than 70% of these visitors come from the U.S. and South America, and 60% are tourists.
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As the capital of Colombia, Bogota is the main recipient of foreign visitors, including both tourists and business travelers. 

After a quick stop in Hong Kong, I departed to Diqin China via Kunming, the capital of the Yunnan province.

Shangri-La was my first stop in the Yunnan Province.  It is the gateway to the ancient Tibetan kingdom. 

I arrived late in Diqin close to 10:00 PM. It was dark and cold. I was not expecting to be this cold   especially with spring around the corner. 

I was tired, and all I wanted was to have a warm bath and a comfortable bed.

The jeep crossed the empty stone-paved streets of the old town of Shangri-La. 

Luckily the hotel was just 20 minutes from the airport.

I came to the Yunnan province to experience some of the Songtsam lodges, and Shangri-la was my first stop.

Songtsam has established a series of luxury lodges in five carefully selected locations, and each lodge provides a distinctive experience. 

Three of the staff members were waiting for me at the lobby, once I stepped foot inside the hotel. I felt the warmth coming from the chimney. Quickly they offered me a ginger tea and homemade cookies, and they made me feel at home right away. The decoration of the lodge was Tibetan rather than specifically Chinese.

The walls were decorated with tapestries showing the figures of different Buddhas. There was beautiful hand-painted Tibetan furniture and a square rice paper lantern hanging from the ceiling. I felt like I was in a traditional Tibetan dwelling.

​I was escorted to my room on the second floor. The door was covered by a hanging quilt with the endless or infinite knot symbol of Tibetan Buddhism as part of the design.

​The deluxe double room was spacious, with a nice living room decorated in Tibetan style, but with modern comforts.   

This small lodge with only 17 rooms is situated next to the Songzanlin Lamasery, or the “Small Potala Palace”. It is located in a traditional Tibetan village with white-walled and richly- decorated buildings. The lamasery was built in 1679, and is the largest Tibetan Buddhist lamasery in Yunnan.
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The Songzanlin Monastery is located at the foot of Fopingshan Mountain. It is 5 kilometers, or 3.1 miles, North of Zhongdian (the old name of the city, until it was renamed Shangri-La in 2001, after the James Hilton novel Lost Horizon). It is in the far northern tip of Yunnan Province at an elevation of 3,380 meters (11,090 feet). So if you visit the area, you may have altitude sickness, if you are not used to the high elevation. 

The monastery welcomed a Communist Party general in the 1930s, but in 1959 during the Cultural Revolution period, the monastery was destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1983. It is home to more than 900 Yellow Hat monks, living there or around the region, and assembling for important functions. It was closed for a two year facelift in 2009, a Government-funded 183-million-yuan (26.7 million U.S. dollars) project.
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The 300+ year old Tibetan lamasery hosts many precious cultural and religious treasures.

The area where Songtsam Shangri-La is located is absolutely breathtaking! The hotel is located in a wide valley, surrounded by soaring, snowcapped peaks, amidst a primeval forest, and across from a pastoral lake, adorned with porcelain blue skies.

In the morning I was awakened by the monk’s chants, and from the window of my room, I saw the mountains stepping out of the midst, into the clear sunny air. The mountains are huge! You would never think that mountains so tall could be outside the Himalayas. The air was clean, and I felt like I was in a land that seemed remote from the outside world. I truly felt like I was in a fabled and mythical place. 

This magical land is located along China’s Southwestern frontier, the Tibetan highland frames its Northwestern fingers.  Tropical rainforest and volcanic plains cross by some of Asia’s greatest rivers, the mighty Yangzi, the untamed Salween, and the free-flowing Mekong.

Shangri-La’s golden fields are populated with Tibetan farm houses which have sloping walls, elaborately painted beams, and shingled roofs weighed down by stones.  Families live above their livestock. Within the golden fields, barley and turnips are dried on distinctive wooden racks, and women balance large wicker threshing baskets on their heads.

My local guide, Sonam Gelek, is one of Shangri-La’s secret treasures.  He took me on a side trip to Shibaoshan Mountain, near Shaxi, to see its grottos, which contain unique eighth-century Buddhist carvings. We visited the 17th-century Sumtseling Monastery, and strolled through the old town.  

You can find stores with home sculptures made of polished stone from the Cangshan Mountains in Dali, handmade silk slippers, Tibetan carpets from Shangri-La, and Lijiang yak’s horn combs.
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My next stop in this land full of endless adventure and soulful self-discovery was Songtsam Meili, a 5- 6 hour drive from Shangri-La. The drive was spectacular! It provided magnificent views, right from the start.

The new G214 HWY crosses high mountains and deep valleys. It is a gallery of amazing natural views, old history, religious sites, and unique ethnic groups. It traverses the chilly 4000+ plateau, and winds into the dry valleys. G214 crosses the origins of five great rivers: Yangtze, Yellow River, Mekong, Salween, and Hong River. The gorges are undoubtedly the most amazing ones in China.  On my way to Meili, I crossed the Baima Mountain Pass at 4.292 meters.

​The Songtsan Meili Lodge was designed to ensure comfort for travelers making the pilgrimage to the holy mountains. Every year many Tibetans, as well as travelers from all over the world, come to worship Mt. Kawagebo the major peak of Meili snow mountain range. Tibetan Buddhists believe that great spirits dwell in these mountains. They also call the mountain Meiri, which means mountain of herbs (medicinal herbs). The mountain is 6740 Meters above sea level.

The lodge is located away from tourists, in a tranquil village inhabited by only five families. It hovers above 3,600 meters, overlooking the majestic mountains.

The lodge has 17 guest rooms, all furnished with large, comfortable beds, a cozy fireplace, timber flooring, and a comfortable large sofa bed, providing a warm atmosphere and combining rustic charm with modern comfort. The food was especially good. The great variety of local wine was surprisingly good as well.
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I felt under the spell of the place, and during my stay, I maintained an almost ecstatic tranquility of mind. My guide, Sonam, took me to the best day-hiking trips I have ever experienced, with stunning views, beautiful nature, waterfalls, and pristine creeks.

The lodge’s rooftop terrace offers a magnificent view of the mountains named Kawagebo, his wife, Meitsome, and their bodyguards - the Five Wisdom Buddhas. The afternoons were unlike any other I’ve seen. The snow on the mountains was covered in a warm, gold hue, making the pure white of the glacier look like it’s glowing. I was mesmerized by the view, and stayed there until the night obscured the view.

My third stop was Songstsam Benzilan, nestled in an intimate green valley by the Yangtze River. The lodge is surrounded by beautiful gardens and authentic white-walled Tibetan homes.

The nearest town is Benzilan, just 10 minutes away, and the Dongzhulin Monastery, which has several “living” Buddhas , is also close by - about 40 minutes by car.  Some of the most pristine Tibetan villages can be seen while driving to the monastery.

Songstsam Benzilan is an ideal place to experience tranquil village life and absorb the well-preserved local culture and traditions.

Out of the five lodges, I have chosen these three because I was interested in experiencing the holy mountains and doing some intense hiking.

​One of the main hikes was to the Migyong Glacier, located close to Mt. Meili, which is sacred to local people. The hike took effort, and at times, due to the altitude, my whole body moved to a single rhythm of breathing, making it difficult to conceal.

I visited three out of five lodges, and all three gave me a distinct experience. I can tell you that the Songstan circuit trips will take travelers on a unique journey in an enchanted world.

​This is a fascinating destination for intrepid travelers.

​I highly recommended it!