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Yunnan Province, China

3/25/2016

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After a quick stop in Hong Kong, I departed to Diqin China via Kunming, the capital of the Yunnan province.

Shangri-La was my first stop in the Yunnan Province.  It is the gateway to the ancient Tibetan kingdom. 
I arrived late in Diqin close to 10:00 PM. It was dark and cold. I was not expecting to be this cold   especially with spring around the corner. 

I was tired, and all I wanted was to have a warm bath and a comfortable bed.

The jeep crossed the empty stone-paved streets of the old town of Shangri-La. 

Luckily the hotel was just 20 minutes from the airport.

I came to the Yunnan province to experience some of the Songtsam lodges, and Shangri-la was my first stop.

Songtsam has established a series of luxury lodges in five carefully selected locations, and each lodge provides a distinctive experience. 

Three of the staff members were waiting for me at the lobby, once I stepped foot inside the hotel. I felt the warmth coming from the chimney. Quickly they offered me a ginger tea and homemade cookies, and they made me feel at home right away. The decoration of the lodge was Tibetan rather than specifically Chinese.

The walls were decorated with tapestries showing the figures of different Buddhas. There was beautiful hand-painted Tibetan furniture and a square rice paper lantern hanging from the ceiling. I felt like I was in a traditional Tibetan dwelling.
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​I was escorted to my room on the second floor. The door was covered by a hanging quilt with the endless or infinite knot symbol of Tibetan Buddhism as part of the design.
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​The deluxe double room was spacious, with a nice living room decorated in Tibetan style, but with modern comforts.   
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This small lodge with only 17 rooms is situated next to the Songzanlin Lamasery, or the “Small Potala Palace”. It is located in a traditional Tibetan village with white-walled and richly- decorated buildings. The lamasery was built in 1679, and is the largest Tibetan Buddhist lamasery in Yunnan.
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The Songzanlin Monastery is located at the foot of Fopingshan Mountain. It is 5 kilometers, or 3.1 miles, North of Zhongdian (the old name of the city, until it was renamed Shangri-La in 2001, after the James Hilton novel Lost Horizon). It is in the far northern tip of Yunnan Province at an elevation of 3,380 meters (11,090 feet). So if you visit the area, you may have altitude sickness, if you are not used to the high elevation. 
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The monastery welcomed a Communist Party general in the 1930s, but in 1959 during the Cultural Revolution period, the monastery was destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1983. It is home to more than 900 Yellow Hat monks, living there or around the region, and assembling for important functions. It was closed for a two year facelift in 2009, a Government-funded 183-million-yuan (26.7 million U.S. dollars) project.
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The 300+ year old Tibetan lamasery hosts many precious cultural and religious treasures.

The area where Songtsam Shangri-La is located is absolutely breathtaking! The hotel is located in a wide valley, surrounded by soaring, snowcapped peaks, amidst a primeval forest, and across from a pastoral lake, adorned with porcelain blue skies.
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In the morning I was awakened by the monk’s chants, and from the window of my room, I saw the mountains stepping out of the midst, into the clear sunny air. The mountains are huge! You would never think that mountains so tall could be outside the Himalayas. The air was clean, and I felt like I was in a land that seemed remote from the outside world. I truly felt like I was in a fabled and mythical place. 

This magical land is located along China’s Southwestern frontier, the Tibetan highland frames its Northwestern fingers.  Tropical rainforest and volcanic plains cross by some of Asia’s greatest rivers, the mighty Yangzi, the untamed Salween, and the free-flowing Mekong.

Shangri-La’s golden fields are populated with Tibetan farm houses which have sloping walls, elaborately painted beams, and shingled roofs weighed down by stones.  Families live above their livestock. Within the golden fields, barley and turnips are dried on distinctive wooden racks, and women balance large wicker threshing baskets on their heads.

My local guide, Sonam Gelek, is one of Shangri-La’s secret treasures.  He took me on a side trip to Shibaoshan Mountain, near Shaxi, to see its grottos, which contain unique eighth-century Buddhist carvings. We visited the 17th-century Sumtseling Monastery, and strolled through the old town.  

You can find stores with home sculptures made of polished stone from the Cangshan Mountains in Dali, handmade silk slippers, Tibetan carpets from Shangri-La, and Lijiang yak’s horn combs.
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My next stop in this land full of endless adventure and soulful self-discovery was Songtsam Meili, a 5- 6 hour drive from Shangri-La. The drive was spectacular! It provided magnificent views, right from the start.

The new G214 HWY crosses high mountains and deep valleys. It is a gallery of amazing natural views, old history, religious sites, and unique ethnic groups. It traverses the chilly 4000+ plateau, and winds into the dry valleys. G214 crosses the origins of five great rivers: Yangtze, Yellow River, Mekong, Salween, and Hong River. The gorges are undoubtedly the most amazing ones in China.  On my way to Meili, I crossed the Baima Mountain Pass at 4.292 meters.
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​The Songtsan Meili Lodge was designed to ensure comfort for travelers making the pilgrimage to the holy mountains. Every year many Tibetans, as well as travelers from all over the world, come to worship Mt. Kawagebo the major peak of Meili snow mountain range. Tibetan Buddhists believe that great spirits dwell in these mountains. They also call the mountain Meiri, which means mountain of herbs (medicinal herbs). The mountain is 6740 Meters above sea level.

The lodge is located away from tourists, in a tranquil village inhabited by only five families. It hovers above 3,600 meters, overlooking the majestic mountains.
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The lodge has 17 guest rooms, all furnished with large, comfortable beds, a cozy fireplace, timber flooring, and a comfortable large sofa bed, providing a warm atmosphere and combining rustic charm with modern comfort. The food was especially good. The great variety of local wine was surprisingly good as well.
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I felt under the spell of the place, and during my stay, I maintained an almost ecstatic tranquility of mind. My guide, Sonam, took me to the best day-hiking trips I have ever experienced, with stunning views, beautiful nature, waterfalls, and pristine creeks.
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The lodge’s rooftop terrace offers a magnificent view of the mountains named Kawagebo, his wife, Meitsome, and their bodyguards - the Five Wisdom Buddhas. The afternoons were unlike any other I’ve seen. The snow on the mountains was covered in a warm, gold hue, making the pure white of the glacier look like it’s glowing. I was mesmerized by the view, and stayed there until the night obscured the view.

My third stop was Songstsam Benzilan, nestled in an intimate green valley by the Yangtze River. The lodge is surrounded by beautiful gardens and authentic white-walled Tibetan homes.

The nearest town is Benzilan, just 10 minutes away, and the Dongzhulin Monastery, which has several “living” Buddhas , is also close by - about 40 minutes by car.  Some of the most pristine Tibetan villages can be seen while driving to the monastery.

Songstsam Benzilan is an ideal place to experience tranquil village life and absorb the well-preserved local culture and traditions.

Out of the five lodges, I have chosen these three because I was interested in experiencing the holy mountains and doing some intense hiking.
​One of the main hikes was to the Migyong Glacier, located close to Mt. Meili, which is sacred to local people. The hike took effort, and at times, due to the altitude, my whole body moved to a single rhythm of breathing, making it difficult to conceal.
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I visited three out of five lodges, and all three gave me a distinct experience. I can tell you that the Songstan circuit trips will take travelers on a unique journey in an enchanted world.
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​This is a fascinating destination for intrepid travelers.

​I highly recommended it! 
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    John Rios

    I love broadening my horizons and opening my mind to different cultures and experiences through travel!  I have been an international consultant for several large corporations including CNN, IOC, and The Weather Channel. Through my extensive worldwide travels, I have amassed a great network of hoteliers and tour operators in every country.  My passion for customer service has led many of my clients to stay with me through multiple generations.

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