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Slovenia by Luxury Slovenia

12/28/2017

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Outside the cozy and surprisingly small Ljubljana airport, the driver was waiting for me with the sign of Luxury Slovenia.
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It took 30 minutes from the airport to the new and chic Intercontinental Hotel. I was told by the driver that the Airport is 16 miles from Ljubljana. 

ljubljana

The Intercontinental is in an ideal location, just ten minutes stroll to the old city. The hotel is truly stunning, with a tall glass façade and a laid back elegance.
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I was greeted warmly by the General Manager, Mr. Milos Cervix, and Alex at the front desk. The lobby was busy with Italians and Austrians enjoying their holiday in Ljubljana.
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My Junior Suite was luxurious and spacious with a great panoramic view. It was high tech and easy to operate, the bathroom was all in marble, and I really liked the two large round mirrors hanging above the twin sinks with a wraparound fluorescent lights.
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​The location is perfect, next to the train station and within walking distance to the Old Town. The Lounge Club Intercontinental was decorated beautifully and had stunning views and superb service with wonderfully dedicated staff. ​
I was eager to explore the city, and Urska, the guide provided by Luxury Slovenia, was waiting for me at the lobby. She quickly whisked me away.

​We had dinner reservations at the top of Ljubljana castle.

While walking to the old town I began to discover the beautiful capital of Slovenia, a city founded in 1461. Ljubljana was populated by Slovenes during the second half of the sixth century, then came the Romans who inhabited here and called the city Emona, then the Visigoth, Attila the Hun, Hapsburgs, Germans, Italians and Yugoslavia.  The area has been inhabited since the first millennium BC. Ljubljana has been the cultural center of Slovenia for centuries.  
Urska knew her city well and she explained the significance of the city to me. She pointed out majestic buildings like the surreally colorful building called the Cooperative Commercial Bank. It had a very colorful façade styled with the traditional Slovenian iconography painted by the wife’s architect. There are other extremely beautiful buildings created by Joze Plecnik, a distinguished architect and urban planning engineer for many cities in Europe. The Art Nouveau period is very much alive in his buildings.

​We arrived at Preseren Square, a thriving point of interaction with a magnificent 16th century Baroque Franciscan church, like a big pink birthday cake. 
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It was Friday night and the Square was filled with people. Beautiful Christmas lights flowed in the air in the shape of stars, constellations and cosmic swirls hanging from pine trees and buildings - A magical sight like a page from a fairy tale book.

Urska, was taking me through the streets and my eyes were transfixed on the beautiful Baroque and Art Nouveau bridges crossing the Ljubljana River. Most impressive was the Dragon Bridge with four large dragons that look almost real guarding either end of the bridge. Spectacular.
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We arrived at the funicular railway to Ljubljana Castle. The castle is perched on top of a hill, called Castle Hill.  A beautiful magnificent building built by Emperor Frederick III in the second half of the 15th century to defend the city against the Ottoman army. From the top Urska says, “The castle offers a view to die for!”

The funicular takes 2 minutes to reach the top of the Castle, where dinner was awaiting for us. Urska mentioned again that this is a must do while in Ljubljana. It is a main attraction to eat at this restaurant.
 
The restaurant is located in the former Archer’s tower accessible by a winding staircase or by elevator.  The room is magical with its medieval theme a perfectly round tower with beautiful frescos covering all the walls. In the middle was a giant chandelier designed to look like flashing arrows. It is a gorgeous space with views to Ljubljana below.

The round walls tell the story of a city with peasant folklore. Every panel tells a traditional story of how the world and living beings were created. Here you’ll find tales about mythical animals like dragons, magical fairytale beings, wandering souls and stories of their old conquests. Urska knew several of the stories, and some of them were mostly sad about Slovenia’s conquered past.
The restaurant is called Strelec and the food was phenomenal. The menu is thoroughly Slovenian.  My first meal in Slovenia was a beautiful surprise.

​Every dish had a different kind of meat. Meat has been around for centuries in Ljubljanan cuisine, and that night the chef prepared for me an entrée of marinated veal, with Jerusalem artichokes, smoked liver, with hazelnuts. The main dish was beef tail with potato puree along with kale with bacon, Brussels sprouts and kale chips. Desert was cooked milk with cinnamon flowers, crispy rice, pear, and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream.

I think that was the most tender veal I’ve eaten, and the creamiest ice cream I have tasted with a great mix of sweetness and texture.

The wine selection was perfect and my taste buds fell in love with the excellent choice of wines, all from Slovenia. It was a surprise to know that Slovenia has great wine.
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Great wine paired with extraordinary and authentic food and the allure of the 900 year-old castle was my first date with this magical city. I have eaten in many Michelin restaurants and would definitely say this restaurant is worthy of Michelin stars.

Bled

The next day Urska was waiting for me in the lobby ready to take me to another adventure. We would be driving via Karavanke and the Julian Alps UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in the Triglav National Park NW of Slovenia, to Bled; the former Yugoslavia’s Alpine summer with immense natural beauty.

Bled is located 1,560 feet above sea level; five miles from Austrian borders. It is on the rail line connecting Trieste, Belgrade with Munich and Vienna.  
The more we left the city behind, the more the snow became thicker and covered pretty much everything.

Urska said it had snowed all night and stopped at the early hours of the day. Ljubljana had been covered  with a beautiful powdered snow.

Once we left the city, the drive became more and more beautiful. Like a large screen in a movie set, the roads unfolded with the most majestic views of the Julian Alps and the Triglav National Park covered with the powdery snow. The sky cleared, and the color was perfect a soft blue with white thin clouds crossing the sky like feathers.  
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Right away my senses awakened and I knew I was in a very special natural wonder.
We passed by the long-recognized symbol of Slovenia, Lake Bled, on our way to Triglav National Park Mountain, making a full stop on the way back.

While driving through these majestic views, Urska told me about an old Slovenian saying: When God was deciding what part of the earth to give to each nation, the Slovenians spoke up: “What about us?” and He said:  “For you Slovenians, I gave you the part I wanted for myself.”
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Indeed, I had the feeling I was in a perfect Eden.

VOgel

Vogel was our next stop. The road was easy and you would never think you were in a mountain terrain.  It was a very easy drive from Bled to the Bohinj valley - so beautiful, peaceful, and with little hamlets and churches by the road - just a fairytale in a winter wonderland.

I kept asking Urska to stop the car. I needed to get out to feel the snow and breathe the pure air. I think this would be the place the fairy godmother would live for sure. It is so magical.

Vogel lies within the Triglav National Park. Parking was easy. We parked next to the Vogel cable station.

The Upper cable car took us to 1,500 meters above sea level quickly, and the view from then cable car was spectacular. Being so high in the Alps gives you a sense of pureness, the morning light shimmering in the snow and on the rock of the Alps. They look magnificent, rigid and strong, petrified in their beautiful presence.  
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Urska said the mountain’s favorable snow conditions make Vogel the perfect destination for Skiing. I saw many people and tourists from as far away as Singapore skiing on top of the mountain.
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Lunch at the top was great. Once again it was authentic Slovenian food. My soup had several kinds of beans, wheat, carrots and sausage. I was surprised that Slovenians eat so much beans, like Latinos. Urska also ordered another soup with a different kind of beans that resembled a soup I ate in Colombia which had the same kind of beans.

The view from the top of Vogel is breathtaking. The Alps, the valleys and the lake below make a postcard that will forever stay imprinted in your memory.  
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Lake bled

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We arrived at Lake Bled where Brdo Estate is located, once the residence of President Tito.  

The Estate belonged to Austrian Duchy of Carniola, until 1920, when it fell into Yugoslavia. It was a very impressive building with beautiful views over the lake.  

Luxury Slovenia arranged for a traditional Pletna boat to take me to see Natural Island, which is without a doubt one of the premier attractions of the area, looking like a decoration on a wedding cake with its church and its Venetian tower.  
The Pletna boat leaves you at the steps of a monumental staircase with 99 stone steps leading to the top of the island. The church, The Assumption of Mary, dates from the 17th century and features a 54m high tower with a remarkable wishing bell. If you ring the bell of the church of The Assumption, your wishes will come true.
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​The next stop was Bled castle, truly a cool medieval castle above the lake. It is just magical and so well preserved. The panoramic terraces of the castle offer an extraordinary view over the region, and the stretching mountain range of the Karavanke and the Julian Alps.

Urska told me the story of The “Sun Doctor”, a Swiss Doctor known as the father of Naturism. He used the castle to perform his therapies in the middle of the 19th century. His famous quote is “Water is good, air is better, and most of all the sunlight.” 
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The castle, dating from 1011, has an imposing Gothic defense tower.  
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With immense natural beauty, Bled with its beautiful surroundings is definitely Slovenia’s leading Alpine all year resort. I thought it was one of the most romantic and charming destinations I have visited in all my travels. And because of its climate and situation, Bled, for years, has attracted people who wanted to spend their holidays in a healthy and clean environment - people looking for healing in the thermal baths, walking paths, and hospital founded by the Swiss hydro therapist Arnold Rikli.

Bled indeed is a magical place where you can enjoy the health benefits of the region and feel the energy that glows from its mountain and the forest. It is a place that balances the synergy of earth, water, and sun. 

Inner Carniola

The next day, Luxury Slovenia took me to the next adventure in the region of Inner Carniola, to see Predjama Castle. It’s a fortification perched high up on a vertical cliff in the gaping mouth of a cavern. It is really a sight, especially when the snow is covering its surrounding areas. A truly medieval castle with well-preserved furniture in the living quarters, it has a chapel with a beautiful pieta dating to 1420 and a dungeon. The private guide told me the legend of Erazem of Predjama, the ‘Slovenian Robin Hood’, and the mysterious tunnel cave. Behind the castle you still see the steps he built to reach the entry of this legendary tunnel.  
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The castle is very dramatic - a must-see, as it has something very special about it.  

Next we went to the enchanted underground world of the Karst region to see the Postojna Cave, the most visited cave in Europe, and it’s connection to the Predjama Castle.

The cave is a legendary tourist attraction. It has been open for tourism for 200 years and hosted over 38 million people from all over the world.  

Petra, my new guide, took me to get the tickets for the cave, and I brought my private guide that luxury Slovenia had for me. These are the most shown caves in the world with an electric train that takes you 2km into the hall of the Great Mountain, or the” bowels of the earth”, as my guide called it. This was followed by a wonderful walk back through beautiful, intertwining and extraordinary underground passages and chambers with spectacular drop stones, pillars and limestone curtains - the most beautiful I’ve seen. The water that emerges and disappears below the surface carved great underground caves and created fantastic shapes.  
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With the very scientific and great explanation of the guide, I managed to learn a good amount of cave science, known as Speleology. I was pleased to realize that the world is actually bigger, since it reaches further under the Earth’s surface.  

Next we visited the charms of the Lipica Stud Farm to see the legendary Lipica white stallions.

​The driving through Slovenia is such a joy, everything is close, and within no more than 2 hours you can be in a completely different environment and topography. The roads are super modern, with excellent street signs, super clean. The bridges that connect gorges and overpasses were done with beautiful skill. Then you have the views of the little hamlets, the hundreds of churches I counted, the wintery lonely fields, and the dormant mountains crowned with snow.
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We had lunch in a lovely little hostel called Krasna. It was a small family hotel with five suites, but the food was a 5-star hotel dinner. Once again I was very surprised by the culinary magic of Slovenia. I had a smoked porcini mushroom dish that was so unique in presentation, and the taste was just divine.  

Vid Daolio, the salesperson of the property, was waiting for us. The history of the horses are fantastic! For more than a 400 years, Lipica has been the homeland of the Lipizzaner horses, where they enjoy absolute freedom. The horses came from Andalusia and love it here. What is not to like? The grounds are beautiful, the air is fresh and there are wonderful sunsets. The first magnificent Stallion came from Spain in 1580. The Farm once belonged to the Hapsburg Court stud farm. It is the oldest European stud farm and today it is a cultural, historical and natural heritage for Slovenia and Europe.
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The Equestrian show was a wonderful experience - to see these stunning stallions moving around the oval ring, airing above the ground, doing figures of high classical schooling - that can be done only if the stallion and the rider are highly trained. The choreography of the show is the story of love, pride and beauty between the horse and the rider. The show is a moving experience with many pleasant moments. I can see now why Slovenia and Europe care so much for these amazing creatures.

Vid, with great knowledge of the history of the horses, the farm and the equestrian show, was a great help for me to understand and appreciate the farm heritage. We toured around and I was taken behind the scenes to see the new stables and the old one, and to interact with the horses. Vid introduced me to one of the head trainers, Mr. Ramon Molina, a Spaniard of course.  
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This is great place for horse lovers and a must-see destination.

brda wine region

After a fun afternoon we left toward the Brda wine region, the land of invigorating moments, known all over the world for its cherries. Petra told me that other fruits such as apricot, peaches, figs, persimmons and chestnuts grow in the area and taste equally as delicious as the cherries.  

I have realized since my arrival that Slovenia is a country of good local wines, so I was anxious to see and taste more of them. 

Brda is located in the most western part of Slovenia, a short drive from the Italian border, nested midway between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. Brda is the land of hills, and in the sunny hillsides of Brda is where these vines have grown for centuries. From this region came wines that have received many distinguished awards and medals around the world. 

These Slovenian wines paired really well with many dishes of the Slovenian gastronomy.  
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You come to Brda to taste its very Mediterranean food which is incredibly inventive and creative, like my Mosaic of Octopus below, a very modern and innovative dish I had at Gredic Restaurant, hotel and winery.  
We stayed overnight at the famous Gredic mansion a hotel with seven rooms, a premium restaurant and a winery. The suite on the 4th floor has the best view, and my corner room had big windows that opened up to show the hills and the vineyards as far as my eyes could see.  

A must-see while touring Brda is the town of Smartno, an architectural jewel who has preserved its heritage with an amazing panoramic hill like an eagle’s nest. A former medieval border walled the picturesque village with five preserved towers. The town is all-around a cultural monument. Other towns to see: Neblo, and Dobrovo.  

Brda area is indisputably one of the most picturesque landscapes of Europe.

Piran

Next stop Piran, leaving behind the vine-rich hills of Collio, the snow-capped Alps and the medieval picturesque hamlets.

In just a 2 hour drive, the Slovenia Riviera with its Venetian-style town awaited me.

I really think it is fascinating that Slovenia can be completely traveled by car in such a short amount of time - its roads connect the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonian plain, all in manageable distance.  
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Driving down from the freeway, the Slovenia coastline started unfolding its charm. I could see the limpid blues water between the pines and cypress woodlands. Slovenia only has 28 miles of coast facing the Adriatic Sea, which gradually narrows between two bays, the Strunjan and Piran.
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Our first stop was a royal visit, lunch at the Kempinski Palace Portoroz.

The hotel was built in 1908, with all the Austro-Hungarian splendor. It has always been a hotel, and today it is a cultural monument. Absolutely a legendary and classic hotel with a great spa and restaurants, its location is perfect -  just 13 miles from Trieste.  
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With 164 rooms, 17 suites, some with sea view and park view and a great spa, The Kempinski hosted Sophia Loren and other Hollywood stars when Piran was the center of Slovenia cinema. In fact, there is a restaurant named after her, with beautiful photographs of the actress.  
Lunch at the Fleur de Sel, with a spectacular view of Portoroz, was perfect.

The food served here is a fusion of Italian, Austrian and Balkan tastes, dressed with their legendary olive oil and the well-known local salt coming from the pans of the Salina Natural Park. Not too far from the restaurant, the Park yields approximately 40,000 tons of salt per year.
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After lunch we parked the car at a public parking spot, not too far from the hotel, and walked to Piran to explore the ancient town.

Piran is the jewel - A really dreamy city and one of the most photogenic cities in the Mediterranean with so much beauty and magical allure. There is a unique blend of Roman, medieval, and a big Venetian influence. There are charming narrow streets and an old town hall with an open, elegant Piazza dedicated to the most famous man in Piran, the well-known composer Giuseppe Tartine. The composer and virtuoso violinist was born just a few steps from his statue of today.

The walk was so much fun, and it was very relaxing. The town is completely pedestrianized, so you can walk the crooked cobblestone streets at your own pace and admire the ornate baroque architecture of the magnificent buildings. You really feel like you are in a medieval city, with a lighthouse, the Franciscan church and monastery, and the medieval tower built upon the hill above the town.
Piran has great coastal galleries, a theater and a fish market. I spent my morning ambling the narrow streets, enjoying the peaceful and quiet town.
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Piran is well-known by the Italians, who come here to enjoy the fresh seafood. It has great cafes along the waterfront, a fish market, a theater named after the composer and a well-equipped marina. During the summer, there is  a ferry that operates to Venice and only takes two hours. 
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Otocec Castle

After a magical day in Piran we went to see one of the most alluring hotels in Slovenia, Otocec Castle, a Relais & Chateaux. With a fairytale setting, situated on a man-made islet in the middle of the KRKA River, it is the only castle surrounded by water in Slovenia, bringing a wow factor. The castle is joined to the mainland by a wooden bridge. The first historical reference of Otocec Castle was in the mid-13th century, when it was occupied by the Knights of Otocec, and over the centuries, the castle was acquired by different owners. During the second war, the castle was burnt and in the 1950’s, it was renovated and given a tourist hotel function.
That morning I enjoyed a walk alongside the river bank and through the ancient trees. The castle sits in an English park landscape style, with beautiful trees, and it is surrounded by the rushing and refreshing water of KRKA river, absolutely a fantastic setting - very organic and peaceful. 
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The hotel has 10 double rooms, 2 junior suites, and 2 superior suites.  

My room was a corner turret junior suite, overlooking the water and the courtyard through sets of double windows, very charming windows, because this is a castle, and they were small. I opened up my windows to listen the KRKA River. 

The main bedroom was large, with beautiful wooden furniture, the décor was stoic and elegant, with a touch of medieval style and equipped with modern amenities.
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The bathroom was huge, with heated floors, twin sinks and a large spa bath.  
The attention is very much as one would expect from a Relais & Chateaux hotel; Service is excellent - the staff is super friendly, and attentive. I had one of the best meals here, accompanied with splendid Slovenian wine.  And breakfast was one of the best I ever had.

The location is perfect, just an hour from Zagreb and an hour and half from Ljubljana, so next time you are in either of these two cities, come see this amazing property and allow yourself to be treated like royalty by the staff.

​The hotel is great for families. 

SLOVENIA

So, at the end of my journey, I discovered how the story Urska told me made sense. I love the story, because at end of my trip, I realized Slovenia has the best of everything, and it is indeed a perfect little Eden to relax, unwind, rest, refresh and to enjoy the rich culinary culture.  

Slovenia is green, healthy, and a confluence of all good - A gastronomic super power of 24 regions with many distinctive dishes. All the ingredients are locally grown, they have the best olive oil and pumpkin seed oil, which is used frequently, locally produced meat, fruit, vegetables and a lot of talent in the Slovenian kitchens.

And don’t forget their intoxicating premium wines that pair so well with the Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine.
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With Portugal, Slovenia is in the category of affordable luxury within the European countries, and it all comes with great service.

Thank you Luxury Slovenia for crafting this magical trip for me.  

Where to eat:

In Ljubljana I suggest to go and experience the unique culinary vision of Chef Janez Bratovz, owner of JB Restaurant. It is one of the best 100 restaurants in the world.
Shopping:

Galeria Rustika, who has the largest range of handcrafts in Slovenia.  

In the Village of Lokev, please visit hotel Krasna - visit their big outdoor terrace and have a lovely lunch there.

In Ljubljana, there is a very nice hotel called Vander, a hidden nest in the heart of the old town, with 16 rooms.  It’s very contemporary, with a great rooftop terrace overlooking the castle and an infinity swimming pool.  

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    John Rios

    I love broadening my horizons and opening my mind to different cultures and experiences through travel!  I have been an international consultant for several large corporations including CNN, IOC, and The Weather Channel. Through my extensive worldwide travels, I have amassed a great network of hoteliers and tour operators in every country.  My passion for customer service has led many of my clients to stay with me through multiple generations.

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